Internal trim of bath wagon: step-by-step guide

The use of a bath for a long time is considered not only hygienic, but also a health treatment procedure. People visiting the bath, less often become colds, cardiovascular diseases and diseases of the nervous system. The traditional is considered a wooden bath: the walls of the steam steam in it “breathe”, which contributes to improved hot air ventilation.


To date, there are many different options for the interior of the bath – these are gas-silicate blocks, and brick, and so far I only gain the popularity of magnetite. However, the appropriate continues to be considered finishing from natural materials, namely from wood. Thanks to the wooden lining, it is possible to create a specific microclimate and a cozy atmosphere necessary for the bath or sauna. Planning with your own hands to sheathe with a bath of clapboard, you need to take into account not only all the nuances, but also to carefully follow the rules of such an indoor finish.

Choosing lining and calculation of the area

For high-quality work, it is necessary to correctly select the material and make calculation of its number.

Sewing the inner surface of such a room like a bath, you only need to be materials that are kept:

  • large temperature differences;
  • high humidity;
  • Permanent contact with water and various substances.

Type of boards and grade material

For the current day, the building materials market is filled with a variety of clapboard from a variety of manufacturers. Lamanes are produced by both Russian production and foreign. The Eurovantia is manufactured with various options for the profile cross section. Also wooden lining can vary in the quality of the surface of the back and front side of the board, the form of the lock and its size, the variety of material and other equally significant parameters.

Most often use the lining of several popular profiles.

  • Eurovantia, having clear sharp faces and forming seams visible to the naked eye during the trim.
  • Softline with more rounded corners.
  • Calm. Seam with such a finish is almost not visible because there is no shelves-deepening. Can imitate the timber, to have both quite sharp and smoother rounded edges.

  • LOUNUDHAUS, the front side of which is not smooth, but with various patterns. The drawing on the Lowheus lamellas is applied using a curly milling on more expensive materials and with hot embossed on cheaper.
  • Blockchaus (Siding).
  • Double-sided lining. And the groove, and the spike of such a board are exactly in the middle, so both parties are obtained equally even – you can choose between them. However, this material has almost no ventilation (ability to “breathe”), so it is not too good for the interior decoration of such wet rooms, like a bath, swimming pool or sauna.

To determine the variety of the acquired lining, you can use the European standard DIN. The difficulty is that many manufacturers use various GOSTS and even their own, so first of all it is necessary to look at the quality of the surface of the material itself, and not on the marking. The entire lining is made with the help of the same equipment and in a single technology, so the material grade is determined when inspection already upon completion of the manufacturing process.

  • Premium (or Extra). Almost the perfect quality lining. Neither a bitch nor cracks are unacceptable. Light blue tint, small sherbinki, roughness and irrepressibles are possible only from the inside.
  • Class A. The bunches on such a board should not be greater than 1 cm in diameter and it is not more common than once on a single-meter stretch area. Cracks, if any, should be very small and, of course, no. It is desirable that the manufacturer independently slipped them. All other defects are allowed only on the inside.
  • Class B. Bounds in diameter may not be more than a third of the lamella, but in any quantity. Also, the presence of through cracks and open pockets.
  • Class S – This is the rest of the lining, on which blue spots are visible, and a large number of large bitch. Difficult to be even on the surface of the side that is visible after installation. However, it is believed that the lining of this class is unacceptable to use for the finishing walls of the walls.


Bath is not only a steam room, but also a wax, pre-banker or even a swimming pool. For each of the rooms it will be more appropriate to choose the wood of a certain breed.

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Wood is divided into two categories:

  • Coniferous: pine, spruce, cedar;
  • Deciduous: Lipa, Aspen and others.

One of the most popular materials for the material for the Euro woman is a lime board. Lipa is satisfied with durable, long does not change the structure of fibers and resistant to the effects of various negative factors. The atmosphere of the linden bath is saturated with freshness and cleanliness.

With aspen wagon, it is easy to work, time makes this material only stronger. If the surface of such a lining will darken, it is easy for it to return the original appearance, the sump surface. And a lipa and aspen are used to finish the hottest and wet room in the saunas – steam room.

Also, the use of cedar is allowed for her finish, but due to the fact that cedar is very quickly heated, discomfort may occur when touched to sun beds and walls from this material. Coniferous trees trim mainly washing or pre-banker. Pine and fir richly isolated a resin and, just like cedar, have a high heating rate, but the use of this material will save money and choose from an extensive decorative lining range. It should be noted that coniferous wood must be predetermined to avoid a large number of floors on the walls.

Options for fasteners

There are two options for placing elements when cladding sauna. We can cut the wall by Eurovantia, placing the boards as horizontally and vertically. Under each of the options, a certain type of framework is required, which is also made from a bar interconnected by conventional nails. Each method has both advantages and disadvantages.

The advantages of the horizontal option are:

  • Reducing the chance of hitting and staring water in the seams, since the mount is carried out by spinning up, which allows the water that has already fallen inside the water;
  • The framework for such a method of fastening the wallboard is made vertically and allows you to more evenly circulate air indoors;
  • Even the highest quality wood is subject to rotting processes, and the horizontal method of fastening the lamella will only be replaced by the material that is located below and more converted, without dismantling the whole wall;
  • With horizontal laying of lining, the drying of wood is less noticeable, which will inevitably occur with any type of material.

The vertical decoration of the European sauna is faster and easier than horizontal. This method also has its advantages:

  • Rapid wagism in vertical seams in the wall;
  • When using the “groove-ridge” system, the risk of water stagnation and the destruction of the fibers of the material from constant humidity is reduced;
  • This finish preserves high room temperature.

Step-by-step instruction

Before starting directly the trim, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​the trimmed surface and choose how exactly the wallboard on the walls will be attached: horizontally or vertically. The floor and the ceiling of the sauna from the inside can be insulated with a wool or other type of insulation. Any insulation must not only choose and install and install, but also cover the layer of insulating material with foil to avoid moisture exposure. Such a material must be knit to the wall before installing the crate. It is also necessary to mount the ventilation system and the furnace, and only then you can nourish the framework of the framework, on which the Euro-making itself is attached. First of all, install the crate and weave the clapboard the ceiling, and only then start working with walls.


After all preparatory work, you can move to the creation of a wooden frame – Crane. First you need to carefully prepare the bar itself. It can be like a orange, and left in its original form, the main thing is that the timber has been processed by impregnations. First of all, racks are attached – they are set perpendicular to the future location of the lining. In some cases, it is necessary to clearly calculate the location of the bar in advance, since the vertical and horizontal location scheme can be combined on one wall. Profile can be attached to ordinary nails if the bathhouse is also made of wood, but it is better to mount it to the wall with a dowel. It should be noted that the length of the bar need to make a slightly larger length of the insulation, nailed to the wall.

Next, the racks are mounted at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. For more accurate calculations, you can use a plumb, roulette or level. If the wall is not flat, you can put an additional cutting of the board or use the suspension for the drywall frame of plasterboard.

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For the full functioning of the bath or sauna, as well as in order to comply with safety, it is necessary to have good ventilation.

Its installation technology is as follows.

  • Already during the installation of the crate, it is necessary to note the places that are intended for the ventilation holes. One hole is placed near the ceiling, and the second is not higher than 150-300 mm above the floor level. Better if the second hole is placed near the oven.
  • For the air duct it is better to use an aluminum corrugation with a cross section diameter of 100 mm. Place holes for mounting corrugations need in easily accessible places to be able to quickly adjust the receipt of fresh air.

  • The use of foam plastic as thermal insulation material when installing ventilation is categorically not recommended. It is better to use non-combustible materials, for example, basalt (mineral) cotton wool.


It should be stopped in more detail on the insulation of the walls. Bathrooms due to constantly high humidity needs a special fastening and multi-layered insulation.

To begin with, it is necessary to put a waterproofing material on the wall so that the moisture does not start to destroy the insulation. You can nail the waterproof to the wall itself or additionally fix it on the surface of the wall with wooden slats. Wat itself needs to be laid between the frame (bars) of the crate with the allen in 10 mm.

On top of mineral wool it is necessary to put a foil film that not only protects the insulation from moisture and steam, but also reflects the outgoing heat inside. Such vaporizolation can be attached by the construction staple directly to the bars of the brass.

You can also use a simpler way and insulate the walls of the sauna using the already foil basalt wool, which is placed in foil to the clapboard.


The fastening of the Euro woman in the baths and saunas make only the hidden method. First, the meticians, which attach lamella to the frame, is heated so much that it can deliver painful sensations when touched on its head. Secondly, the metal mounting can rust from constant contact with water and damage the surface of the slave. And finally, thirdly, these mounts look too inaccurately, especially when using the lonely lone tones.

Parligh sheathing in the bath should always be held first on the ceiling. It starts from the entrance door. The lining is fastened either on nails, either by kleimer, since the small finishing carnation will not be able to withstand the weight of the lamella hanging on the ceiling in such a position. Kleimer is a kind of clamp (clothespin, bracket), which is made of stainless materials and better saves the board of lining from damage when mounting. The latest boards are quite difficult to score a nail into a groove or put on kleimers, so you can use a secret nail without a hat. Scoring such a nail, very easy to get along the board itself and damage it, so you need to use Dobochnik. On the joints with the walls it is necessary to leave a gap of 40-50 mm so that the air is freely circulated, and the lamellas, slightly swallowing from the moisture, did not break each other.

The walls of the steam wall are carried out by analogy with the ceiling. Start better from the corner, leaving the gap near the floor at 10-30 mm in order to avoid rotting boards on the places of their joint with a floor. Docking individual parts of the lining on the finish of such a room like a bath. It is better to leave a small reserve so that when swelling the entire walls of the wall is not deformed and did not go “wave” due to constant contact with water.

The clearance is made as follows:

  • Initially, the lamellae is rushed to the stop in the groove of the already installed lamella, along the seam line of the connection of two boards are made small marks with a sharp object;
  • The board is slightly removed relative to the markings made and levels in terms of level;
  • The algorithm is repeated with each next lamella;
  • The shakes of the lining will look more accurately, if you withstand equal indents, both on all walls and the ceiling lining.
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With the help of lamellas, you can also sew door loops by cutting the board to the required length. Operamen themselves can later be framed by platbands.

Window slope is installed using a starting plank attached to plastic lamella. In this case, wooden lining is fastened with one end to a wooden bruster, and the remaining – to the plastic. Such a simple option is suitable for metal-plastic windows. You can also use a more complex method: install a separate framework on the slope and put on it a wooden lining on it. This method is well suited for wooden windows having a decent depth. If the slope of the wall is completely unintelligible, you can simply bore it with a wooden nickname.

The decoration is made in the same way as the steam room finishes, however, the lower ends of the boards (either the boards themselves, which are stacked by the floor with a horizontal installation method) fix at height at least 30 mm from the floor. Also in the washing room, you can use PVC lining or plastic panels that are decorated under wood to create a single design. Tile and ceramics are also perfect in the form of an alternative finish option.

The installation of the pre-banker is no different from the installation of waters, but it is impossible to mount the lining. Walls near the furnace is better to lay a brick or stone. Metal sheets are often used or other non-combustible coating. It is not allowed to adjoin the chimney pipe to something other than the metal screen fixed on the ceiling. Behind the screen chimney is preferably wrapped with mineral wool.

Finish treatment

So that the wood does not dry, not rot and did not lose attractiveness, it can be treated with special means. However, the wagon in the steam room is still better not to handle, otherwise, due to high temperatures, harmful evaporations from such impregnations fall on the skin and in the lungs. Of course, with time, untreated lamellas are spoiled and subject to replacement, but it happens no earlier than once every 2-5 years. If the steam process is necessary, you can use only special compounds for sauna or bath.

Means with which the lining is treated, are divided into several types.

  • Special impregnations and oils – these are the most popular funds that are sold ready for use. It is necessary to apply them to the surface of the lamellas and thoroughly soak wood.
  • Ordinary lacquer. It is advisable to abandon the use of varnish in the wax and even more so in the steam room, but you can paint the lacquer in the pre-banker.
  • Acrylak – means intended for surface treatment in rooms with high humidity. Building materials are represented by both Russian and foreign manufacturers. Using acrylica, a water repellent and dirt-repellent surface is formed capable of withstanding the temperature to 120 degrees. The tool also protects wood from mold and can be used even on concrete structures.

Design Ideas: Examples

The lining in combination with other types of interior decoration allows you to embody even the most courageous design solutions. You can lay the lining in different directions, forming an intricate pattern on the walls or ceiling.

It is also important to choose the right and mount the lighting in the sauna – it should be matte and not cut your eyes. Lighting devices need to choose heat-resistant, moisture resistant and safe. LED or fiber optic lamps fit perfectly. Protection class must be no lower IP-54. Luminaires in a steam room are better to mount under benches, as the devices will work more stable below, where the air temperature is below. Lamps on the walls can be separated by a decorative grid.

To avoid frequent replacement of the bottom of the lining in the wetting due to the exposure of moisture, you can combine the laying of the tile and wood trim. The ceramic tile is laid on the floor and the lower half of the walls, and the ceiling and the top of the wall is trimmed with wooden clapboard. The process of laying tiles for baths and saunas is no different from laying in other rooms, it is only necessary to choose the glue and grout. They must be water-repellent, well tolerate the effect of the aggressive medium and not collapse from a large temperature difference.

On how to make the internal trim of the bath wall, look in the following video.

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