Washing machine dials water, but does not erase: causes and ways to eliminate the problem

Washing machine-machine (SMA) can gain water, but at the same time it does not start to wash or erases poor quality. This breakdown depends on the characteristics of the model: the most modern are not waiting until the water is heated to the desired temperature, and the tank will be filled to the top limit, and begin the washing immediately. If this does not happen, it is necessary to understand the reasons for such a breakdown.

Possible malfunctions and their causes

In some models, the drum begins work, it is worth the water to climb to the minimum mark. When the water leakage is detected, it goes without stopping, while the water set is stopped. Washed in the tray washing powder is washed off into the sewer in just a couple of minutes, not having time to have its own cleaning effect on lingerie. It, in turn, turns out to be poorly charged. It is worth the hostess to block the flow of water from the crane installed on the pipe suitable to the car, the program immediately reports an error (“no water”), and the washing stops.

Possible “endless wash” – water is recruited and merged, the drum is spinning, and the timer is worth, say, on the same 30 minutes. Possible Water and Electricity Waste, Enhanced Engine Wear.

Other models are automatically inhibited leakage. Finding that water is not recruited to the maximum level, the machine will block the inlet valve. It warns flooding when water flows from the drain hose or tank to the floor, under the bottom of the car. Well, when the car stands in the bathroom, in which the inter-storey overlap, which generates the floor in an entrance apartment on this floor, washed, the floor itself is tiled or a fabric, and in the sewage system is provided “emergency stroke” to run water in case of leakage in the water supply.

But Most often, the floor turns out to be flooded, if SMA works in the kitchen, where waterproofing, tiles and additional “descent” may not be. If it does not block the water on time and do not pump out the resulting “lake” – the water is leaking and spoil the ceiling and the upper part of the walls from the neighbors from the bottom.

Faulty water level sensor in tank

Level gauge, or level sensor, based on a relay, triggered when a certain pressure on the membrane is exceeded in the measuring chamber. Water enters this compartment through a separate tube. The membrane is regulated by special veins on a screw basis. The manufacturer’s plant adjusts the stops so that the membrane is blurred (or closed depending on the logic of the firmware) to the current contacts only at a certain pressure corresponding to the maximum allowable water level in the tank. So that the trim screws do not spin from vibration, the manufacturer lubricates their paint thread before final screwing. Such fixation of adjustment screws was used in Soviet electrical appliances and radio equipment of post-war years.

The level sensor is performed in the form of an unbeling structure. Her autopsy will lead to a violation of the housing integrity. Even if you get to the details, glue the cut-off structure is possible, but the adjustment will be lost, and the sensor compartment will leak. This device is changed entirely. Despite its important purpose – in fact, preventing the overflow of the drum, the breakdown of the drain valve, or even the protruded tank in the place where the walls have thinned out of overpressure, is the levels of inexpensive.

Violated sealing of water level control in the tank

Depressurization of the water system – one of several faults.

  1. Tak. If the container is not made from a solid stainless steel, but has only spraying (anodizing) by chromium-leaving additives, over time it is mechanically erased, it is exposed by a layer of conventional rust steel, and the tank over the days takes effects. Planting a tank – dubious procedure. The replacement of the tank is carried out in the service center for the repair of washing and dishwashers.
  2. Faulty level sensor. Cleaning the case will lead to its leakage.
  3. Barbean cuffs leaving. This is a ring strip, preventing water flowing from the hatch in the front of the machine. Cropped or perforated rubber, from which it is made – the source of leakage. It makes sense to stick it if you can vulcanize cameras, tires and hoses. This is done with a piece of raw rubber and heated soldering iron, sealant and several other means, reliably eliminating a hole (or gap). In other cases, the cuff is changed.
  4. Damaged corrugations, hoses, forming a water circuit both inside the car and beyond. If the long hose can not be shortened in the place of leakage without prejudice to the serviceable supply of water, it is changed to a new.
  5. Broken pipes of retractable and exhaust water valves. They are made of plastic, resistant to breaks even with strong blows, but they refuse them over the years. Replace the entire valves.
  6. Leaky or cracked Powder Put. In the tray section, water is supplied to rinse and dissolve in washing water, typed into the tank, powder and scale from scale. Holes and slots in the tray will lead to the leakage. In some models, SMA tray can be removed completely (it is a retractable shelf with rounded sides along the edges or bath) – it is subject to replacement. It does not have redundant pressure on it, except from the jet beating from the intake pump, but the poor-quality elimination of leaks will lead to its ambulance and repeated breakage.

Faulty electromagnetic valve

Such valves in sm two.

  1. Inlet Opens the flow of water into the tank of the car from the water pipeline. Can be supplied with a pump. It is not always the pressure of water in the water supply equal to one bar, as the instruction requires, and it is necessary to download water, even when it comes from an external tank, in which water is supplied from the well. Pump is made in the form of the simplest pump. Pressure in the input pipe may not be at all, and the water will be due to the valve.
  2. Exhaust – Picks the sewer (spent) water from the tank into the drainage pipe of the sewage or septic. It opens both after the completion of the main washing cycle and after rinsing and pressing.

Both valves in good condition are constantly closed. They open on the team from the electronic control unit (ECU) – special control board. In it, the software part is separated from the power (executive) with the help of electromechanical relays feeding the power from the network to these valves, the engine, boiler of the tank at a certain time.

Each valve has its own electromagnets. When the magnet is powered, it attracts anchor, lifting the membrane (or damper), limiting the water current. Magnet coil malfunction, dampers (membranes), the return spring will cause the valve will not appear or at the right moment will not close. The second case is more dangerous than the first: water will continue to gain.

In some SMA, in order to avoid breakthrough of the water system, protection is provided for the protection against the overflow of the tank – excess water is unsubstantiated in the sewer. If the retract valve is “hung” and is not controlled, you need to replace it. He is unrepretentious, because both the level gauge is manufactured unintended.


Electronics of any washing machine released in the 2010, has software modes of self-diagnosis. Most often the error code appears on the display. The value of each of the codes is decrypted in the instructions for a specific model. Generalized value – “Tank Filling Problems”. More private – “The intensive / exhaust valve does not work”, “no desired water level”, “Exceeding the maximum permissible level”, “high pressure in the tank” and several other values. A specific malfunction for codes makes repair less long.

In activator machines, unlike SM (automatic), there is no software self-diagnosis. You can guess what is happening, you can watch from a few minutes to an hour after the work of SMA, which is fraught with extreme water costs and consumed kilowatts.

Only after preliminary diagnostics can disassemble the unit.


First, disassemble the washing machine.

  1. Disconnect SMA from the mains.
  2. Disconnect the water supply on the feed valve. Temporarily remove the fuel and drain hoses.
  3. Remove the rear wall of the case.

The retrach valve is located at the top of the rear wall.

  1. Unscrew the available bolts. Patty with a screwdriver of the latch (if any).
  2. Slide and remove a faulty valve.
  3. Check the valve coils with the tester included in the module mode. Norm – at least 20 and no more than 200 ohms. Low resistance indicates a closure, too high – to break the enamel, which is wound each of the coils. Coils are completely identical.
  4. If the valve is working, install it in reverse order. Faulty valve almost unexploded.

You can change one of the coils, if there is a spare one, or rewind in the same wire. The compartment itself in which the coil is located, can be partially collapsible. In other cases, the valve is changed. Change dampers and return springs yourself will not succeed, they are not sold separately. Similarly, “ring” and the drain valve.

The tank of the washing machine is checked for the integrity of the waterstock or from droplets that leak into the resulting hole. It is easy to notice – this is the largest design, up to several times big than the motor. A small hole can be sought (or brew with a dot welding machine). With significant and multiple damage, the tank is definitely changed.

Women are found, welded to the holding inner frame.

Alone, if you are not a plumbing master, it is better not to shoot such a tank, but contact the specialists.

Cuff, unlike the overwhelming majority of other parts and nodes, changes without a full scheduling. Open the hatch of the washing compartment, unload linen (if it is there).

  1. Unscrew the screws and remove the plastic frame that holds the cuff.
  2. Remove the wire or plastic loop passing around the perimeter of the hatch – she keeps the cuff, gives her a form, does not allow to fall out when the hatch opens / closes.
  3. Patty the latches inside (if they are) and pull out the worn cuff.
  4. Lock in her place exactly the same, new.
  5. Collect the hatch back. Check that the water does not flow out, running a new washing cycle.

Some models of washing machines require the removal of the hatch and / or front (facial) door part of the machine case, including the tray for washing powder. If the case is not in the cuff, it was possible that the door block lock was caught: it does not snatch or does not hold the hatch tightly closed. Demanding the lock and replacement of the lock.


Do not erase things too often at 95-100 degrees. Do not fall asleep excessive powder and money from scale. High temperature and concentrated chemicals will boot the cuff rubber, contribute to faster wear of the tank, drum and boiler.

If you have a pumping station on the well (or a pressure switch with a powerful pump) in the country or in a country house), do not create a pressure of more than 1.5 atmospheres in the plumbing pressure. 3 and more atmospheres extrudes membranes (or dampers) in the retracted valve, contributing to accelerated wear.

Make sure that the retracting and suction pipes are not broken and not transmitted, the water passes freely.

If you have too contaminated water – use simultaneously mechanical and magnetic filters, they will protect MSI from extra breakdowns. Check from time to time the mesh filter in the retracted valve device.

Do not overload the car with excess lover. If it is withstanding up to 7 kg (according to the instructions), use 5-6. The overloaded drum moves by jerks and swinging to the sides, which leads to his breakdown.

Do not load in SMA carpets and carpets, heavy capes, blankets. They are more suitable hand wash.

Do not turn the washing machine in the dry cleaning station. Some solvents, for example, 646th, diluted plastic, are able to damage the hoses, cuffs, dampers and valve pipes.

Machine maintenance is performed only in the off state.

Removing the causes of the breakdown will help the following video.

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