Methods for fastening the toilet to the floor

It’s hard to imagine a bathroom without this product. Install the toilet can be installed in different ways, for example, independently or resorting to the help of professionals. It seems to many that such an installation is something complicated and troublesome than those who use the service firms. The cost of work varies depending on the city and the organization itself. And most of the firms fasten the toilets only on regular fasteners. The price of their services begins from 1200 rubles.

Private plumbing services will be cheaper, or novice masters. But the quality of work in this case will already be questionable. However, if you deal with materials and a sequence of actions, it turns out that there is nothing complicated here, and you can cope myself. And the cost of work will not be high.

Features of the device

Before you begin directly install, it is worth getting dead to get acquainted with the varieties of toilet bowls. They can be divided into such signs as a tank shape, bowl shape and tank, manufacturing material, and a plum angle.

Tank shape

  • Compact – This species stands in the toilet of each of us. It is easy to maintain, and swees the water, compared with other species. But has a small pressure. The tank is attached on a special protrusion, on the bolts in the back of the toilet and adjoins close to the wall.
  • Monoblock – This is a single whole, bowl and tank. They cannot flow in places of connection. But when damaged a tank or bowl – the device needs to be replaced completely, because they will not disable them into separate details. In addition, the model needs more space than for a compact or mounted.
  • Separated – occasionally meets in old houses. Barrel is attached almost under the ceiling. Connects with a bowl of a long pipe. This design has a powerful water pressure during plum. Takes less space due to the high tank location. Still produced, but worth a lot, because it goes like an exclusive retro style.

  • With hidden Bachkom (the bowl itself can be mounted) – the tank is installed inside the wall, and the bowl is located outside. The whole design keeps on a metal frame, which is hiding under the tile or plasterboard. Looks very beautiful, but folded in repair. When problems with the Bach have to be broken by the wall.

However, in small rooms, where every centimeter in the account, this kind of best option. Allows you to save half a measure of space at the expense of a niche in the wall where the tank is hiding.

  • Combined with bidet – It has a built-in small crane. Different manufacturers offer many forms and sizes. Installation of such a device will be more difficult than the usual toilet.

Shape bowl

  • Visrats – most commonly used. Water goes smoothly, at an angle, so unpleasant odors are not delayed, as well as the contents. The name occurs due to the protrusion that prevents the water burst in time, and provides the desired slope for flushing from the walls of the toilet.
  • Voronko-shaped – In the center of the bowl there is a funnel, because of which the wash is happening very quickly and carefully, but the burst protects worse than the visor.
  • Tarls – Outdated view that is not released now. Inside bowls Flat shelf for accumulation of defecation products. Although this design was without bursts, was cleared only under the jet of water. Another disadvantage of the species is the rapid spread of the smell.
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Materials manufacturing

  • Faience – affordable. But not durable. Has a porous structure, which makes it difficult to clean. Service life 15 years. Greatly inferior as other materials.
  • Porcelain – more expensive faience, due to production costs, but more reliable and stronger. Easily cleaner and has a long service life. Now more often use ceramics, proging is covered with a thinner layer of glaze, but cheaper in production.

  • Steel – Such toilets all saw in the toilets of trains. They are durable and wear-resistant, easily wash. Not the cheapest at the price.
  • Reinforced acrylic – This species consists of plastic, almost without porous structure, and therefore the most hygienic. But poorly withstand high temperatures and very fragile. Most often stand in shopping centers due to their low cost.

The angle of plum

  • Kosovo – Suitable if the sewage output is at the floor level or slightly higher. The angle of inclination may be different – 30, 40, 60, 75 degrees. Pick one that goes well.
  • Horizontal – It is convenient if the drain pipe is hidden behind the wall. It is like if the sewage output is 10-15 cm above the floor level.
  • Vertical – was widespread in homes, with sewage system in interoaded floors. If the sewage exit is directed up, and it is hidden in the floor.

No matter how you are going to fasten the toilet on the floor, you must first carry out some cooking:

  • Prepare a place of installation. Clean and degrease the tile or dismantle the old toilet and align the surface.
  • Collect a tank before installing the toilet bowl (concerns compact). Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, which is attached to the model.
  • If you connect to the old cast iron riser, you first dry it and clean it in order to avoid problems with flowing.
  • Prepare all the tools for assembling and editing.

Methods of installation

Depending on the materials used, there are such varieties of installation.

  • On regular fasteners. That is, the dowels, usually they come in the kit when buying a product. The main complexity is to evenly twist the bolts on both sides, without having dragging them.
  • On glue. Here it will be about epoxy resin or sealant. Simple and efficient attachment method to ceramic surface. Cope and beginner, even if you have a floor with warm.
  • On cement mortar, or tile glue based on it. The essential disadvantage of this method is the difficulty of dismantling plumbing, for example, when redeveloping or clogged.

To the wooden coating such a fastener is difficult.


You can glue the toilet to the tiled floor. However, to more reliably strengthen the design, experts recommend additionally use the special screw.

Materials and tools

The standard set attached by the manufacturer contains:

  • Self-tapping screws 2-4 pieces. and plastic dowels;
  • washers, for laying between self-draws and toilet in places of fastening;
  • Decorative Caps.

Supply and additional tools:

  • hammer, marker, pliers and screwdriver, keys;
  • Perforator with a drill under the size of the dowels;
  • Drill for a tile of 1-2 mm more dowels;
  • Glue: “Liquid nails”, silicone sealant, epoxy resin;
  • Corrugation (if the output of the toilet is not coincided with the socket) or the cuff (if the output coincides).

Order of work

It should be strictly adhered to the installation action algorithm.

It consists of several stages.

  • Put the toilet to go where it will stand all the time and draw a markup, circled the outline of the base marker on the floor. Apply points on fasteners.
  • Drill holes for dowels on the floor.
  • Put the toilet clearly to the drawing line drawn.
  • Check that the openings do not move, and score a dowel in them.
  • Apply sealant to the edge of the sewer pipe and insert the cuff or corrugation into it. The sealant will protect the smells in the house and leaks.
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  • Screw the toilet until it stops moving. No need to tighten the bolts. Remember the uniform of the tightening. Be sure to use plastic washers. Without them, metal bolts can be vested parts of the faience or altogether split the base.
  • Put the tank. First, put the gasket on the toilet shelf, and the tank itself is installed on top of it, tightening it on the bolts.
  • If a tank with a separate shelf, do not tolerate its weight to the ears of the toilet – they are too fragile. Pick or bottom or rear, distributing it its weight.
  • In order to do not clog the filter in the tank at the first start of the water, pre-drain a little directly to the toilet through the tube.

Installation on glue

The two most common adhesives are silicone sealant and epoxy resin. They are easy to handle – you only need to be able to correctly handle the adhesive gun. This way is easier than bolted mount. No risk split the product when pulling bolts, or damage the toilet tile. The toilet mounted on glue will definitely not be fused. It is also possible lateral gluing.

In addition to the glue you still need:

  • ammonia;
  • Roulette and triangular line;
  • narrow spatula;
  • sandpaper;
  • Pencil or marker.

The process of gluing the product to the floor is carried out in such a sequence:

  • Put the toilet to the cardboard in order not to scratch the tile and select it using a ruler and roulette.
  • Remove the substrate and mark the markup with a pencil or marker.
  • Emery paper passes around the edge of the support of the toilet. To align it. So grip with glue will be more reliable.
  • You can also walk the sandpaper on the tile, but it is important not to go beyond the markup line. Otherwise, traces will remain, noticeable after installation;
  • Alcohol degrease the surface where you will install plumbing and wipe dry.

  • Carefully apply glue from the syringe to the edge of the support. If the glue is much – it will be visible at the edges and stains the tile, but sat down, on the contrary, it is not enough, then the toilet will be in disregard.
  • Put the toilet with the applied glue to the markup. It is important to put it perfectly for sure that it does not have to move it tile.
  • Floor around the base of the toilet bowl sprinkle with soap solution so that when removing excess the sealant it did not stick to the tile.
  • From the floor residual glue remove the narrow spatula moistened in the same soap solution.
  • For 12-24 hours do not move and do not touch the toilet to give the glue to dry.
  • Install the tank, lay the water pipe to it and connect outputs into the sewage after drying the adhesive composition. The last stroke will be fixed lid and seats.

How to fix with cement mortar?

This method is convenient if the new toilet is set to the place of the dismantled old. Or if there are no other tools and glue at home to put the product differently. Instead of cement mortar, you can use the finished tile glue on it. Such a means universal and with it can be attached by many designs in the bathroom, for example, shower unit.

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You will need tools:

  • narrow and medium spatulas;
  • building level;
  • a hammer;
  • chisel;
  • concrete solution;
  • Malyan Scotch.

Installation is carried out in a strict sequence.

  • Put the toilet to where it will stand inpatient. Check that all design elements approached each other.
  • Marker circle the base of the legs of the toilet, and remove it to the side.
  • On the line of the marker, apply a chisel and hammer on the tile. Be careful not to split the tile. Protection of eyes from fragments and dust with special glasses.
  • Instead of notes, you can stick the painter tape for the circled line. It is important that he did not go beyond the edges of the contour. Its rough surface also grabs well with cement.
  • Run sand and cement in proportion 2: 1. If there is no sand, then you can do just cement. Tiled adhesive will need 3-4 kg, it will be more convenient for cement – more quickly efficient and has a convenient form of powder, compared to concrete, in which large sand fractions can be.

  • Wet the tile before sick. Then, without going abroad markup, apply adhesive solution.
  • Moisten and bottom cut laying toilet bowl. Prepare two plastic linings for 5-7 mm thick and 50-80 mm width. They need to be put on the front and rear side of the base to create a “pillow” between the toilet and tiles. Setting the toilet, accurately align its level to avoid distortion.
  • Collect the spatula of the surplus of cement, speaking out the edge, and scrub the docking seam. Gaskets can be obtained only after complete drying, and the holes from them fill and align. If you are glued to the cement solution, then it must dry 3-4 days. At this time, it is impossible to use the toilet. The deadline for drying cement glue is written on the package.

If not deviated from this algorithm, the quality of work will be at the height.

Important nuances

When installing the toilet in a new place, you should take the distance from it to the entrance to the bathroom. The perfect indent from the door is 50 cm and more.

Do not use the impact mode when drilling a tile. This material can be drilled only on small revolutions, periodically cooling the drill and the hole itself. Otherwise the lint splits.

Plum connection must be easily accessible. It is important to make sure that it does not swing that there are no defects in it. Cold water supply should be carried out freely by one hose.

Iconfigure place for toilet, it is important not to forget about the tank. He must be attached perfectly smoothly. “Scroll” a tank on the toilet to understand how much it will occupy the place, and whether it will be convenient to carry out sanitary work in the case of repair. Need to check the ratio of fasteners of both parts with each other and see if they did not break.

At the end of the installation of the toilet and the tank, a trial descent of water should be made. If there are no leaks and the toilet is not dangling, you can safely use it.

In the next video, you will find instructions for installing the toilet on the example of the model from Ideal Standard.

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