How to replace and repair the engine of the washing machine?

The engine is the only source of torque, mechanical energy, without which your washing machine will not cope with the washing of linen. It is susceptible to wear – as well as the other moving parts of the washing machine – automaton (SMA). There is a big load on it than on the drum – taking into account the mechanical losses for friction of contacting surfaces.

Causes of faults

The reasons why the washing machine does not produce the required mechanical power, six.

  • Wear of the carrier part of the shaft. A very rare case, when the damaged is the damaged axis, it is the most durable part of the supporting structure, including stator and rotor plates.

  • Broken or no lubricated bearings. Ball bearings fail more often – much more often when they are forgotten to lubricate at least once every six months or a year with lithol, solidol or graphite lubricant. Excess friction stretches the shaft of the motor.

  • Burnout windings. Short-screwed turns, as you know, highlight a large induction current in variable magnetic fields of rotor and stator. The resistance of one turn is so small – and incommensurable, not coordinated with a long current, which distinguishes a significant amount of heat that destroys the winding. This is true for rotors and stains of engines, transformers, chokes and electromagnets – wherever a core coil is used.

Engine overheating – a sure sign of short-circuited turns: temperatures at this point are such that the neighboring coils can also burn out, and the motor works unstable.

  • Reducing the supply voltage. Situations are common when instead of 220 volts voltage becomes equal to 127. This is a rarity – but at least once a few years of power plants and substations can give low voltages, according to which the final will be set at a mark of 127 in. For household appliances such a voltage is not hazardous. Washing machines it does not threaten – the turnover will grow almost twice. Collector engine, for example, in general “indifferent”, how many hertz frequency in the outlet – 25 or 50.

  • Covered bricks. Collector engines are so arranged that the rotor windings are connected in series with a stator winding through graphite brushes. Engine operation in 1000 and more hours wear brushes. The frequent heating of the motor from long-term work on limit revolutions is even more contributes to the wear of the brushes. New, non-earning brushes, giving excessive spark, also cause infallible operation of the motor.

  • Overload drum lover. Do not lay more kilograms of linen than indicated in the instructions.

    Reasons why the car does not erase linen (drum still), five.

    • Loss of electrocontact. The winding break occurs due to critical strikes and vibration during engine operation. The winding is damaged and when stored and operating it in aggressive media, for example, in rooms where pairs of strong mineral acids are present. Wine cliff can also be burned off short-circuited turns, mechanical damage from foreign objects in the engine, and T. D. Wine stopping the engine operation – breaking the supply wires and a network cable, the disappearance of electrical voltage in the outlet and T. D.

    • Random feed of the interfacial voltage 380 in guaranteed to thwate all electrical engineering and electronics in the house. SMA is also not designed for such tension. Use a high-power stabilizer for which the input voltage can vary from 100 to 500 V (such a device is extremely difficult to find).

    • Flew or damaged belt. In some mothers, a belt transmission from the motor shaft on the drum.

    • Thermal protection works independently of the reasons for overheating of the motor: overvoltage, interstetic closure, long-lasting nominal wash tens of kilograms of linen (parties, one after another), lubrication spending and t. D. The thermistor is triggered when the temperature of the stator plates exceeds 90 degrees of heat. When shooting the thermistor, the supply current supply to the engine is stopped until it cools below 80 degrees – only after that the thermistor “will decline” back.

    • EMU breakage (electronic control unit). This is a control fee divided into electronic and electromechanical (power circuits with switching relays). If the program is refusing or electronic parts of the board (processor, RAM, ROM, flash memory), control commands are not transferred to the power circuits. Worn, the rejection of the contacts of the relay themselves (for example, one of them, including the engine) after millions of triggers, also cause the engine and all mechanics.

      Initially, determining what the reason is easy to repair Mote.

      Determining breakdown

      The problem coming from the engine manifests itself in different ways.

      1. Sprinkle below – Brushes wear, burned terminals connecting the power cable with the engine.
      2. Cracked – emerged inter-touch closure in windings, engine components were covered with conductive graphite dust.
      3. Whistles – Increased whistling level comes from the inverter that controls the overloaded inverter engine.
      4. Shoots – Pasting engine winding or tan on the case. Most often, this happens when the car warms the water, and the engine is started (it works in periods specified programmatically). The test is checked by the tester – in the module mode.
      5. The drum moves jerks – broken drive, belt stretched out. The jerking operation of the engine is observed with the worn brushes or flaring the operation of the inverter, an unreliable power supply, the absence of a clear closure when the control relays is turned on on the board, oxidized terminals on the wires.

      The first thing is the verification itself the engine itself.

      Common motor repair

      To get to the engine, do the following:

      • De-in power, feeding the plug from the outlet, move the typewriter from the wall;
      • Discharge water supply from the water pipeline and disconnect the fuel and drain hoses;
      • Remove the rear wall of the machine (in some cases, removing the tank and shifting it to the side, t. To. The engine is under it).

        Check out the operation of individual motor nodes.

        Brush

        Remove shock screws on the sides of the engine and remove the brushes. If they are almost completely settled – replace them on exactly the same. Ideal option – buy similar, this is a consumers for a motor. The resource of the brushes – up to 15000 hours.

        Bearings

        It may be necessary to disassemble the stator (it is usually divided into two halves) or the rotor is removed from one end. At the ends of the rotor (or in the stator) bearings are fixed. Replace them on exactly the same. They can be found on any wage. Possible their interchangeability – from similar engines.

        Wires

        Change and wires and terminals are easier than other details. Any power wires are suitable with a cross section of up to 1.5 mm2. Terminals and cables can be found in the construction supermarket. New terminals with wires are connected using soldered joints. If the wire is torn off – the connection is restored by soldering, and isolate this place.

        Wires with impaired insulation are subject to replacement.

        Lamella

        Lamel – Copper plate on the current “belt” of the rotor. The number of lamellas can reach 20. Accordingly, the number of windings – 10, t. To. The beginning and end of the winding are connected with paired lamellas and contact with brushes. Graphite stepping from the brushes in the process of work can “smoke” lamellas. Clean them with shallow sandwich. If the lamel flashed, only the replacement of the entire rotor will help: in the collector engines of the winding, the windings are filled with compound or epoxy glue, and it is impossible to swell the lamella to the end of the winding.

        Stator

        The burnout of stator windings requires the replacement of the stator. Often the stator winding is also filled with a mature or “epoxy”, and the repair is not subject to repair. If the service center did not find a working stator from the used engine, in which the rotor burned or worn out, the engine is unrepretentious and is replaced by the whole. On the “unlone” engines, the stator is rewound and independently – only a coil of the new enamel of the desired section is needed.

        Thermal stitch

        Replace the thermistor easy. It is a quick-release element. Most often it is located on the plates of the stator. The suspicion of the thermistor breakage occurs when the superheated motor cooled, the contact of the ECU with the engine is available, and the motor does not start.

        Try to turn on the “Spit” motor – bypass the thermistor using the DIFAVTOMATA (if the motor takes 220 volts) or jumpers. Having set the jumper, restart the SMA program from the stop location.

        Replacing the engine washing machine

        If the motor is still faulty – and it is unrepretentious, then do the following:

        • Make a car;
        • Remove the belt (or straight-receiving wheel) from the motor;
        • Specify the instructions where the fastener is located, which the motor is fixed, remove these bolts;
        • Remove contacts from the engine terminals;
        • Lift the engine and remove it;
        • Install the same motor in its place;
        • Connect and collect everything in reverse order.

        Connect again the flow and flow of water, open the tap of the plumbing line. Try running the machine. Washing linen will be executed according to the parameters of the selected program. If the performance of mothers is restored, then put it on the same place after the end of the washing.

        On how to make the replacement of brushes and bearings of the motor, look next.

        Rate the article
        ( No ratings yet )
        Add comments

        ;-) :| :x :twisted: :smile: :shock: :sad: :roll: :razz: :oops: :o :mrgreen: :lol: :idea: :grin: :evil: :cry: :cool: :arrow: :???: :?: :!: