Features of the balcony and loggia

The dohkeeper is a cellular assembly with square-rectangular (less than triangular) spans, intended for fixing the insulation and hydro / vapor polypolescence. The main thing in the fastening of the root – efficiency, the speed of proper installation.

What is it and necessary?

Balcony or loggia dory is used in the insulation of the floor and protect the walls, the ceiling from the penetration of the cold into the room communicating with this territory of the apartment in winter. Thermal insulation flooring floor from concrete floors – the main stage after installation on the balcony of multilayer glass windows. Floor bags as a supporting structure uses a vehicle bar. In the cells of the bar, a warming padding is laid, for example, minvat, foam or foam filter filler. The floor is raised due to laying lag in 1-2 layers.

Lagam Alternative – Cheat design with rectangular spans in height, for example, a threshold between the room and a balcony (or loggia).

To hold the heat owner of the apartment, setting the thermal equipment, finishes the inner walls of the balcony railing heat insulating layer. To fix the insulating layer on the parapet, use metal photograph or wood conversion in the form of a frame basis. In her, in turn, and put the segments of the insulation. By installing the insulation layer, the trough is covered with a trim building material, for example, plywood.

To separate the ceiling, allow the use of the same sheath with insulation. After installing the outer casing of the layer on the renewed ceiling, lighting.

The walls of the balcony compartment are trimmed with plastic spacers or lining. The main part is applied wooden doom.

Review of species

Types of doomles for the insulation of balconies and loggias are classified according to the materials used and by the installation method.

By way of assembly

The insulation makeup is harvested horizontally and vertically. The first refers to the floor and ceiling, the second – to the walls. In principle, it is possible to make a trim from all sides from the same materials, using the same layers and a carrier grille.

By type of material

Whole wooden structures include rail or timber. As a outer (finishing) finish, a plywood or polished lining of the highest grade is used (EuroNoga), a tipped board (“Eurodoska”). Insulation – glass gamble or basalt wool. Waterproofing layer – Bituminous coating (or bitumen emulsion). In a southern climate that does not differ in harsh winter with significantly frosty weather, you can do without insulation, screwing the boards on the anchors directly to the wall, and then eliminating the remaining holes after installing the holes using wood-glue spa.

Advantage – good isolation from moisture and cold, the availability of vehicles for the price, the prevalence of wooden products, high environmental friendliness, ease of processing. The cross section of the bar fluctuates from 2 to more than 10 cm. Wooden structures are easy to mount in the conditions of limited rooms – on any basis (metal, concrete, brick and t. D.). Plastic and metal structures are easily fixed on a wooden shepherd.

The disadvantage of wood is the need for impregnation with antiseptic, fire and moisture-proof compositions, in order to prevent dies and damage.

Metal structures are combined with polyethylene and bitumen waterproofing, all sorts of coatings that do not give moisture to condense on the cold floor, parapet, walls and ceiling. Before mounting, steel metal products can be covered with a rust enamel, aluminum – ordinary varnish. As a sheat for metal, plasterboard will be used or all the same plywood. Metals do not miss liquids and moisture, do not burn (as a result – does not require special impregnations).

Steel, for example, you need to drive to protect alloy from rust. Steel structures are able to simultane more than one hundred years – subject to timely renewal of paintwork. Thick steel is not susceptible to send. Aluminum does not require coloring – tight raid from its oxide protects underlying metal layers from further oxidation. But the metals, possessing greater thermal conductivity, easily give heat and hold cold for a long time. Installation of metallic dohes requires a larger stock of the wall and fasteners.

Purely plastic finish includes the same lamellas (from polypropylene, high-blooded polyethylene and T. D.), insulation in the form of inferno or foam. Outside the balcony or loggia is cured with plastic panels. The disadvantage – some materials, for example, polyethylene and polypropylene, are burning, supporting the combustion process after the termination of the impact of a third-party flame. Standard metal cutters have a significant length – 4 … 12 m, and they are required to pre-trim the size of the room.


Preparatory stages Two: Collecting tools and calculations. Not a single sensible master will begin work, not having a project (or at least outline).

Required tools

To install a balcony doomba need:

  • Construction roulette is not less than 3 m;
  • Bulgarian and cutting wheels on wood and metal;
  • Stroymarker;
  • hammer and passatia;
  • putty knife;
  • Screwdriver and bits for self-tapping screws;
  • Scissors for metal;
  • Construction Personnel (Stapler).

The consumables here are as follows:

  • Metal profile;
  • Bar;
  • wire;
  • Sand and cement, crushed stone – for concrete;
  • Mounting foaming;
  • Staples.

For upcoming work, buy all of the above building materials and consumables.


Party of the profile or timber is determined mainly by the square of the floor, walls and ceiling of the warmed loggia. As an example, a complicated version with a vertical main design and horizontally located crossbars. The distance between vertical elements is no more than meter, and the height on the balcony fence coincides with the distance from the floor to the windowsill. Loaded elements – For example, side partitions and non-relaxing walls. Here the material is cut to height from the floor to the ceiling, which, in turn, will take new points of reference.

For example, for a loggia of 4 m and the height of the balcony fence, 5 segments of 100 * 4 * 4 cm are needed – two bar are located with edges, 3 – between them, on an equidistant distance from each other.

In case of insulation, partitions will require 4 more segments (for example, 2.5 m). Horizontal crossbar is attached to the vertical segments in the incidence of 40 cm. The crossbar needs three rows – two at the ceiling and floor, one in the middle in height.

In this case, the horizontal crossbind has a total length of 12 m. When laying with plastic panels, the 4th row is added in the middle – plastic has a significantly smaller rigidity;. In this case, the horizontal crossbar will increase to 16 m. Door, window openings are introduced their adjustments to the project plan. Recalculation is done for related walls if they also be trimmed. Conditioning of openings around the perimeter – 2 lengths, width and depth of the day will be added to the previously calculated overall length of the horizontal crossbar.

Preparing fastening elements, keep in mind that the tree is attached by conventional self-draws. If the wall or partition is wooden initially, then the dowels are not needed for self-tapping screws, it is enough just to sear the places of screwing screws to the drill.

For example, self-tapping screws and nails of 4 mm thickness are collected by means of a 3-millimeter drill. For (iron) concrete wall dowels will be required. The floor and the ceiling will definitely require the fastenings of the bags with self-draws with a dowel.

Components preparing for a more thorough load – for example, suspensions for a TV, workpiece under a computer table and t. D. Fixed with anchor bolts, whose diameter in the transverse section is 8 … 10 mm.

Features for different types of sheathing

Wooden doomba will suit any kind of cladding: siding, PVC panels, MDF-sheets, OSP (OSB), Evrovagon, Gypsum. The insulation does not matter – hydro and vapor polypolescence is placed on both sides. A similar approach is acceptable for metal products. But plastic lamellas, except for plastic, is unlikely to solve wooden (plywood) lining: the latter is too heavy for them. As for the metal profile – he, like a tree, will suit all types and varieties of facing coating.

How to make your own trees?

Step-by-step instructions for mounting dohes about the same. Only a few actions differ, without the individual characteristics of which all installation will not cost.

On the floor

Remove the size of the floor, mark the timber or metal profile according to the size of the territory of the balcony or loggia. Split them on scattered tags. Spread the sawn timber or profile in the future places of their location. Note on the floor and walls orienting lines for which the timber (or profile) is exhibited. Distribution of crawling spaces (or profile) and concrete floor. Make and drill the timber (or profile) in places of fixing. Dinet the resulting lags on the guide marks, send them – and the floor itself in the locations of their location. Screw the anchor bolts into the concrete floor (inter-storey overlap), achieve a reliable fixing of lags. After their final fixation, dispense the waterproofing and insulation in the section, then laid clean flooring. Paul seeds.

On the walls

Guide the height of the walls. On the walls where marks from lags are preserved, set the timber or board (either metal photographs) for predetermined labels. This will help somewhat reduce the cost of the timber (or metal). Attach metalpille to concrete walls and parapet using anchors. If the partition between the room and the loggia is wooden, then use the preliminary severity of the crossbar under the head of the self-press head with a large drill (not through). Then put waterproofing with the layers of the insulation and install the wall panels (wooden, drywall or plastic).

On the ceiling

Similarly (as on the floor) attach metalpille or plastic slats on the ceiling, observing parallelism and evenness. Load the insulation with a waterproofer (film), screw the panel. You can, instead of plastic panels or weaves, install a suspended (or tensioning) false ceiling. Ceilings, walls and floors of apartment buildings of different years of construction – “Khrushchevka”, “Brezhnevka”, new buildings were mandatory concrete (based on overlaps), and therefore, without anchors for the ceiling flooring could not do. T. To. the flooring does not lie and do not stand on the edge, but hanging. It means that it requires a reliable framework that can only be achieved by anchor-brace compounds.

See further how to make a balcony crate.

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