Fall is a good time to separate old lily nests and plant them in a new location. At this time, they have already flowered and gradually go into dormancy, so transplanting will survive painlessly.
Lilies do not root as well as tulips, so plant them earlier. The soil temperature by this time should drop to 10 degrees. After flowering, lilies should rest for about 1.5 months. After that, it is ready for transplanting. Different species bloom on their own dates, so you can dig up the bulbs as early as the end of August and continue almost until the end of October. If the soil temperature drops below 0 degrees, transplanting lilies will be very risky.
Choice of location
The attitude to light differs from species to species:
Most hybrid plants do well in sunny places;
Oriental lilies and Marguerite require penumbra;
Asians and LA hybrids are unpretentious – only full shade will not suit them.
The soil should also be different:
tubular hybrids grow well in soil with a neutral reaction;
white-white species – need alkaline soil;
For Asiatic lilies, it should be slightly acidic;
for Oriental and Martha’s lilies – sour.
All species cannot tolerate flooding and high standing groundwater – in such places the bulbs rot. A site in a draught is not suitable for them either – the flower stalks can break. You should not plant these flowers after other bulbs, most of them share diseases and pests. To improve the soil, on the site of future plantings, sow velvets.
The choice of planting material
If you transplant your own lilies, after digging up the bulbs need to be inspected to see if they have any signs of rot or damaged roots.When buying planting material, pay attention to the following:
condition of the bulb – it should be dense, not dried out;
roots can be dried out, but not rotten, but it is better if they are alive with a length of 4-5 cm;
There are no dark spots or ulcers on the scales and at the base of the bulb.
If a purchased bulb has a small sprout in the fall, you can plant it. Most likely, it will spend the next summer season alone, and it will take a year to emerge.
Preparing the bulbs for planting
If the health of the dug up bulbs is not in doubt, it is better not to shake off the soil from the roots, divide the nest and transplant.A different approach to the preparation of purchased material and your own bulbs with possible diseases:
dug up specimens should be washed under running water;
Remove diseased scales and prune rotten roots;
etchant 20 minutes in a solution of “Fundazole” with a concentration of 0.2% or “Karbofos” – per 1 liter of water st. l.;
dry a little in the shade in a draught.
The roots should not dry out completely. If when digging up the stem broke off from the bulb and it has roots – it is also a planting material. If the stem before transplanting is still green, shorten it to 10-15 cm, so that the outflow of plastic substances to the bulb continued.
In one place, lilies live up to 4 years, so you need to take care of sufficient nutrition for them:
Light soils are enriched with peat – a bucket per 1 sq. m;
Heavy – peat and sand, a bucket per the same area;
The plot is deeply dug over – to two bayonet of the spade;
per 1 sq. m bring up to 10 kg of humus, depending on the fertility of the soil, 50 g of potassium sulfate,100 g of superphosphate.
Lovers of alkaline and neutral soils will need the addition of ash – up to 400g per 1 sq. m.
How to plant
Own planting material, which grows in the same place for 3-4 years, you must first dig out: 10-15 cm from the nest and pick it up with a shovel. Turn out the bulbs on the surface, separate large specimens and offspring, carefully inspect.
The depth of planting is the same as for all bulbs: three bulb heights. For stem-rooted species, it should be a little deeper, so that the plant had room for root formation. It also depends on the height of the stem:
stunted species planted at a depth of 10 to 12 cm with a distance of 15-20 cm;
The species average height buried at 12-15 cm with a distance of 20-25 cm;
High-growing – require deeper planting – up to 20 cm, the distance between them – 25-30 cm.
With deep planting, the entrances will have to wait longer, but the number of seedlings increases.
dig a hole to the desired depth, its size depends on the number of planting material;
at the bottom lay a layer of sand 1-2 cm thick;
spread out the bulbs at the right distance, straighten the roots (broken and too long are cut off);
cover with sand;
Fill the hole with fertile soil;
water – bulbs need moisture for rooting.
To keep the bulbs from mice use tar:
1 L of sawdust impregnated with the same amount of water with the addition of 20 g of tar;
The composition is mixed and allowed to stand for two days;
planted bulbs with a small amount of soil, and then sprinkle one or two handfuls of sawdust and finally cover with soil.
Small babies are better planted separately on the breeding bed. Distance between them – 5-6 cm, the depth of planting – 3 height of the bulb.
This is only one way of propagating lilies, there are others, for them autumn is a good time.
Lily propagation methods
They are all vegetative.
In the fall, when dividing the nest of large bulbs, separate the outer scales – no more than half of the total. They are washed, etched for 15 minutes in a solution of manganese solution of bright color and slightly overheard. Then proceed as follows:
placed in a clean polyethylene bag;
sprinkle with crushed charcoal;
Keep for 6 weeks at a temperature of about 23 degrees and another month at a temperature of 18 degrees.
Until the spring planting, the rest of the time the onions spend in the refrigerator, but you can immediately plant them in a container with soil and grow in the apartment on a bright window. They are planted 2/3 deep. In the open ground in May.
Stem bulbs formed in the axils of the leaves, also material for reproduction:
They are harvested, kept in a bag for 2 weeks in the refrigerator, during this time the roots will form;
Bulbs planted to a depth of 3 cm in loose soil in the furrows, keeping a distance of 5 cm.
Taking care of lilies in autumn and winter
If the autumn is too dry, the planting is watered. Tubular hybrids, white lilies and martagon, and in some regions eastern and OT hybrids are not too frost-resistant. Their planting needs mulching with peat or sawdust with a layer of 5 cm. If the beginning of winter with severe frosts is snowless, it is not unreasonable to mulch all plantings. Remove the warming layer in spring after the snow melts.