Peculiarities of strawberry propagation by mustaches

The very first summer berry on the market – strawberries. Its scent is indescribable, but it can be clearly detected. Call the berries victoria, large-fruited garden strawberries, pineapple strawberries. Fruits differ in taste, color, shape, size. They are propagated by seeds, whiskers, division of bushes. In the article we will tell you how to grow strawberries from mustaches.

The difference of garden strawberries, strawberries and victoria

The true wild strawberry is a herbaceous shrub with high, small, cone-shaped berries. Fragrant, slightly bitter wild berries are a regular fixture in camp meadows.

The field strawberry, green on one side and red on the other, fragrant, round, lying on the ground, is called a green strawberry in the plant classifier. True wild strawberries, the plant is dicotyledonous, has female and male bushes, grows in warm climates.

In the Volga region a large garden strawberry is called a victoria. It is the name of a variety first introduced into Russia and named after Queen Victoria. Southerners all large-fruited garden varieties are called victoria, strawberries (Fragaria viridis) grow there in the forest.

How do you propagate garden strawberries?

A huge species diversity of plants that form a tuber, which is a false berry from a sprawling pedicel with an upper arrangement of seeds, belong to the genus Strawberry, family Pink. Its garden form is called in Latin Fragaria vesca, the garden strawberry. Large-fruited varieties, combined into a separate species, came from the crossing of American varieties of Chilean and Virginian strawberries, are classified as Fragaria ananassa – pineapple.

The species diversity is dominated by varieties, whose propagation is carried out by shoots with shoots, which after rooting give a new bush. At first, it is difficult to see the rudiments of a new plant on the tendril as a thin round trunk. But after a few centimeters from the mother bush, the leaves open, you can see the heart, ready to root. The minicrown is formed, and further throws out the tendril from the axillary bud of the lower leaves, for the next rosette. It is the future planting material. Soon horns, root shoots will appear and the offspring is ready to give continuation, to take root in favorable conditions.

Not all varieties produce moustaches. But the bush grows horns, gathered in a common root. Each of them gives a separate flowering stem, represents a ready plant and is ready to share. A bush at the age of 3-4 years can be disassembled, into several ready to propagate rosettes.

The third method of propagation is by seed. It is used to renew the plantation of remontant seedless varieties. The berry needs to be dried, the bunches collected, washed, and stratified. Sow in February superficially, with snow on top. Water will carry the seed to the right depth. The seedlings develop for a long time, but by autumn the bush will give a good crop of berries.

Important! Whichever way you plant strawberries, in the first year the berry yield will be small, the second year abundant, in the third year the berries are shallow. Regular renewal of the plantation, choice of location, with a return in 3-5 years, a guarantee of yield.

Choosing a place for a bed for strawberries

Let’s use the advice of the professional Mikhail Kachalkin, candidate of agricultural sciences, director of the Experimental selection nursery, and other agrarians and practitioners.

The place for the strawberry bed should be in the brightest place, with a barely visible slope. Progenitors are gourds and vegetable crops, lovers of neutral fertile soil. Strawberries should not be planted after pumpkins and nightshades, lilies, roses or raspberries. In the soil there should be no pests – nematodes, May beetle larvae, wireworm. When digging, the rhizomes of perennial weeds should be selected.

Soil needs to be light and nutritious. Humus, sandy loam and loam is suitable. Before digging a bucket of humus per square, sprinkle 40 g of superphosphate. Any complex chlorine-free fertilizer can be used in recommended doses. Before planting, sprinkle the bed with clean river sand and incorporate it into the top layer with a rake.

Sowing phacelia siderata on seedbeds prepared from the fall gives excellent results. Result:

1. Loosens up the soil with its roots;

2. Brought to the surface of the nutrients from deep layers;

3. The top is cut off for future mulching, the roots are left to decompose in the ground.

Phacelia is sown and in the spring, after the sprouting of grass, planted strawberries. Siderat shades the soil, nourishes and protects the bush, diverting pests to itself. Later on the grass can be cut for mulch or compost.

Raise the ground in beds, or plant on a level plantation depends on climatic conditions and the proximity of groundwater. On light soils, high ridges dry out quickly and freeze harder in winter. Frequent watering keeps it moist, but nutrient salts leave with water. Fertilizers are necessary.

High ridges are a must in the lowlands, where groundwater is close. But these are the most unfavorable conditions for the berry. Cold and damp.

Create a schooling

Preparing the plantation from the fall for planting at the end of the next summer for gardeners on 6 acres is unacceptable. They are advised to create a “children’s garden” on the bed vacated after the early vegetables. The earth is not recultivated, you need to level the site and map out wells at 15 cm, with a row spacing of 40 cm. This is where the whiskers will be planted on the school.

Ask – why not dig over? Young plants do not root well in loose soil. The soil settles – the roots become bare and dry. The hole is washed away, the heart in the ground rots.

Compact placement of schooling will not take up much space, easy to care for, cover for the winter, early spring. Prepared this fall bed will accept developed bushes in the spring, as soon as the soil thaws. Transplanted with a large root ball, nursery plants will take root superbly.

The technology of strawberry propagation by stems

Strawberries proliferate due to single horns. Each at first gives roots and creates a rosette, then produces a single flower stalk and stalks.It has served its function, dies off, but new horns emerge from the axillary buds:

1. first year – 2-3 plants.;

2. second season – 5-9 pcs.;

3. Third year – 8-16 pcs.

Each of the new seedlings works for the harvest and multiplication. But after three years the bush has aged, diseases have accumulated, the berries are shallow.

There is also a pattern, the more the mother bush gives new bunches, the less qualitative they are – the berry becomes shallower, the yield decreases. A bush that gives its energy to feed new rosettes is less productive. Therefore, the plants that give birth are called uterine, and they remove pedicels and extra whiskers, leaving 6-8 horns to fully develop. When the new bush develops, the conductor connecting it to the uterus withers.

In dacha conditions, uterine plants can be planted separately, in the garden or on the lawn. More often a compromise is practiced. The gardener leaves the first few rosettes on the fruit bush, all the other whiskers ruthlessly removes. The horns left, he rooted in cups with fertile soil, dug in the bed.

Plucked roots in the ground plants can be planted in the schoolhouse earlier, freeing the bush from the extra “eater”. Plants with undeveloped roots are suitable soil of medium fertility, after harvesting the early harvest.

Plantation under the film – no pods to cling to. The strongest, preserving properties of the matrix will be the first and second rosettes on each tendril of the first order. They need to be taken, continue to cut off. Time of harvesting – end of June – beginning of July.

They are cut, soaked for a day in any biostimulant, planted in furrows on light soil. Shade the plants, keep the soil moderately moist. For transplanting to the plantation, choose well-developed bushes in the spring.

Signs of good seedlings

Signs of a well-rooted rosette from the mother bush:

1. 5-7 leaves, developing in a spiral;

2. shoots up to 10 mm long;

3. The axils at 1 – 3 leaves are ready to release the next whiskers;

4. The axils of 4-6 leaves will prepare the buds of new boles for wintering;

5. The root of the numerous threads is even, tapering, yellow in color.

6. The rudiments of 1-2 flower stalks are formed above.

The flower stems continue to form in the spring. The bush of the first-born, depending on the variety, is ready in the first season to give several flower arrows.

The earlier the bush developed, the greater the harvest will bestow. The early-deposited bushes in the school lag behind the mother-fed plants in development.

Planting and care of strawberries

Before planting seedlings with open roots, without an earthen clod, they are disinfected in a solution beforehand:

1. copper sulfate – 2 g;

2. table salt – 4 g;

3. water – 5 liters.

You can hold it for 20 minutes in a pink potassium permanganate solution. After the roots are dipped in clay putty, dry slightly.

In the first year, for yield, plant bushes in a row more often in 2 times. After fruiting, transplant the extra one-year-old bush to another, prepared bed or give to neighbors. Taken with a clump of earth, it takes root very well.

The classic scheme of 40×50 cm. It is suitable for a bed 90 cm wide. Do not bury the plants or expose their necks when planting. Fill the root space with fertile soil to a depth and width of at least 20 cm. The hole is filled and compacted to ¾ of its height.

Substrate is prepared:

1. humus – a bucket;

2. Superphosphate – 30 g;

3. ashes – ½ cup.

The surface of the hole for watering should be flat, like a saucer, so as not to wash out the heart with soil. Mulch the soil. While the plant is taking root, shade the new plantlets on a hot day, and keep the soil moist.

Questions and answers

Question: How much space should be set aside for strawberries in the country for a family of 3 people?

Answer: If you eat – 20 plants are enough, each needs 0.5 m2 of land. Remontant varieties give a double yield, but are more demanding to care. They should be planted less often – 60×60.

Question: How to prepare the soil?

Response:Remove perennial weeds steam them under a black film in the hot months. Then dig over, pick out the excess, add 2-3 buckets of compost per square, 50 g of complex fertilizer, ash – any soil will become fertile.

Question: What fertilizer to give the new planting?

Answer:Complexes for strawberries should not contain chlorine. If the soil is well dressed initially, you can feed it in the spring with urea, treat it with a Bordeaux mixture. As soon as the buds have advanced, and until the last harvest, the berry is watered with clean water.

Question: Is it better to plant in high beds or in a flat area??

Answer: A bed is guaranteed to keep plants from spring water stagnation. It is more convenient to take care of raised plants. The soil warms up better. But if it is the southern regions – the roots can overheat in summer. In the north in the cold, there may not be enough snow to insulate a tall bed – will be blown away by the wind.

Question: When is the best time to plant seedlings?

Answer:Spring to September, just enough time for rooting before frost.

Conclusion

Specialists and experienced gardeners consider the care of strawberries no more difficult than other fruit plants. It propagates easily and is grateful for care. But finding the right spot isn’t easy. The bushes need to be planted in different places. The strawberry chooses where it is best.