Juniper – one of the most popular crops in landscape gardening. The reproduction of this sober cutlets is a relatively simple way to get a lot of young and strong plants.
What varieties can be multiplied?
As is known, the overwhelming majority of ornamental plants retain their distinctive features only with vegetative reproduction of stalking. However, not all juniper varieties can be multiplied by a similar way. The following types of culture are subject to stallion.
- “Meiyi” – Decorative shrub with blue-green cheese and severe steel tump. This plant belongs to the dwarf – its height varies from 30 cm to 1 m, so it is often used to form a bonsayev. It looks invariably effectively due to hanging shoots and thick crown.
- “Mint Julep” – This plant attracts attention to wide branches and thick needles of a mint shade. In winter, the needles of this juniper will not fuss. The plant distinguishes resistance to protracted frost, gaspace and summer heat.
- “Mordigan Gold” – Golden juniper with severe antiseptic and bactericidal properties. The plant looks exclusively noble due to the divergent horizontal shoots and unusual coniferous color. Grows slowly, to maturity in diameter reaches 2 m.
- “Wiltony” – Unusual juniper, forming a fluttering carpet with needle cheese of silver shade. It is difficult to imagine, but a small stalk eventually can grow 3 meters in all directions, and in addition to the main weaves, it gives a lot of lateral, so you can get 2 kV from one bush. m fluffy carpet.
- “Dream Joy” – another juniper with fluttering shoots. The height of the bush reaches 40 cm, the diameter of the crown is only 1 m, an annual increase – 15-25 cm.
- Gold Coast – low-speed bush high no more than 1 m with nice yellow-green needles. Prefers illuminated areas, in darkening the color loses its saturation and depth. Unpretentious to the types of soil and air pollution.
- “Lime Glow” – Another interesting juniper with a saturated green cheese. The shoots of this plant grow ray, in the middle there is a slight deepening, a bronze tide is acquired by the needle.
- “Smash hit” – Dwarf variety of juniper height not more than 20-25 cm. Breaks grow unevenly, young pigstream is distinguished by pronounced herbal color, sharply stateing with a tint of aged needle. Used to design rocaries and pleasure tracks.
Depending on the type of juniper, the branches for rooting can be harvested at different times, starting with early spring, when snow comes down, and until late autumn.
It is best to collect processes in springtime, optimally – in March, during this period, the aspiration and awakening of the kidneys begins, such a landing material can be fully coincided already in the current season.
Summer workpiece is allowed. It is best to do it in early June, when an active growth is eared and a weighing of young growth occurs. Depending on the variety of coniferous, rooting lasts from 2.5 months to a year. Some varieties of juniper in the first year give only a callus, and a full-fledged root system is formed only by next year.
At the autumn time, the luxury branches have already stupid – they are planted only next year.
We draw attention to the fact that the first roots of juniper appear in 27-30 days, but in order for the root system to become viable, you will need to grow at least for another month. That is why the processes prepared from July to September are planted in an open site only a year later.
Preparation of planting material
The juniper grown from the cuttings can grow both healthy and fluffy and curves, weakened. This largely depends on how the landing material was assembled. In order for the plant to fully comply with all your expectations, follow the following recommendations.
- As a royalties, it is best to take a plant aged 5-8 years, since in more adult age the ability to root formation in conifers significantly decreases.
- Parent plant must necessarily be healthy, with a thick crown of bright color.
- For precipitated varieties, the location of the cutting does not matter. In this case, it is important to choose a well-developed splashing branch for which the sunlight falls. This is especially true for bright varieties.
- In cone-shaped, colonum and pyramidal varieties, it is necessary to glue the central shoots of 1-3 orders from above. If you take cuttings from the side branch – you risk getting actively growing juniper.
- It is important that the branch, intended for the shilling, had a living tall kidney and a full-fledged cone, otherwise the seedlings will begin to close a lot.
- Experienced gardeners are recommended to use shoots that have already begun to be labeled, since too young cuttings and too old branches give a low level of rooting.
- The workpiece of the material should be carried out in cloudy weather either early in the morning. This will significantly reduce the evaporation of moisture from the cutting section.
- Do not touch the too thin branches, as they assign the entire supply of nutrients much earlier than the growth of the roots. It is best to take a stalk-one-age 20-30 cm long.
Cuttings, obtained from the trunk and large skeletal branches, it is better to take with a fragment of a tree. This contributes to rapid rooting.
It will be more correct not to trim the branches, but to tear them down quickly down. If the tongue is getting too long, it will have to trim it.
If the material is harvested from a large and thick escape, a garden secateur will be required or a knife with a sharp blade, while the slice must be captured by 1.5-2 cm of the weathered fragment.
After the planting material is assembled, it is necessary to save the lower part of the cutting of the needles by 3-4 cm. It is best to do it with your hands, as in this case, when unscrewed, the wounds are formed, which contribute to faster rooting formation.
Immediately before the room in the substrate, sections sprinkled with “root”, “heteroacexin” or other amber-based stimulants. But it is not necessary to withstand the branches in solutions with an activator – with a long exposure of moisture, the bark begins to peel and plant starts. For the same reason, the further rooting is better not to carry out a jar with water, but in a container with a nutrient soil.
Features of rooting
Juniper cuttings rooted in the nutrient substrate – the land must be lightweight, aerated, with neutral or weakly acid reaction. It is best to use a mixture of peat, turf and river sand with the addition of perlit and vermiculite. Adding ashes, shell or lime is not recommended, as they give an alkaline soil reaction.
If you are going to root a pair of cuttings, then you can use a flower pot. Ceramzit, crushed stone, large pebbles or any other drainage, are certainly poured onto the bottom, then we fall asleep the prepared soil with a layer of 15-20 cm and sprinkle with sand. If the number of seedlings is great – it is better to plant blanks into large boxes or greenhouses.
Planting cuttings for rooting has its own characteristics – simple stacking in the ground is not enough. Step-by-step landing instruction includes several stages.
- With a wooden carriage in the prepared land, a hole is formed at an angle of 50-55 degrees. If you plan to plant several processes, the distance between the wells should be about 7-10 cm.
- The cuttings are laid under the tilt, blowing them by 3-5 cm.
- The land around the processes needs to be pretty seal, so that no voids remain.
- Saplings should be pouring through a pulverizer or through a sieve that the soil moistively moistened.
- The cuttings are better sent to the greenhouse – for this they are covered with a polyethylene film or a bottle.
Intensive formation of roots in juniper occurs at a temperature of 21-25 degrees and humidity level 95-100%. At this point you need to avoid direct sunlight.
On average, seedlings are ready to move to a permanent place in 3-4 months. However, different varieties have these time frames can move. Often in the summer, the root formation is suspended and continues in the fall.
During the root formation period, it is necessary to maintain a soil in a wet state. If the seedlock remains indoors until the next season, it is necessary once a quarter to handle it with fungicidal solutions to prevent diseases. The lighting should be scattered, but bright – the light contributes to the formation of phytohormones responsible for the growth of the roots.
After the roots achieved 1.5-2 m, it is necessary to gradually order juniper. For this daily open and ventilate a greenhouse.
Rules landing in open ground
With the movement of juniper, it is not worth a rush. If the cuttings were harvested in spring or at the very beginning of summer – the planning time should be selected so that the bushes have managed to adapt to the onset of winter. Ideally, there should be at least 70 days from the moment of planting them in the greenhouse.
If the cuttings were harvested later, you can transplant them next in spring as soon as the snow melts, with a later survival, the risk of yellowing needles in the sun.
For searches, it is necessary to choose a well-lit place, a slight dimming is allowed, but the twilight must be avoided. In the ground, planting material is transferred together with an earthen room so that the roots are not injured, as they are very fragile and thin in juniper.
A colonum-shaped juniper needs to be searched vertically, bush grades deepen under a small angle.
To disemboditate, it is necessary to prepare a landing jam with a depth of 1 meter and width, 2-3 times higher than the diameter of the earth coma. At the bottom it is necessary to pour drainage, pour out garden earth, carefully put a seedling and fall asleep in the remaining soil. Root neck should stay near the surface.
Immediately after landing, the juniper need to pour and cover the mulch. In the first year of life, a seedling should be protected from bright sunlight, wind and winter frosts. To moisture, this plant is undemandingly, can easily withstand drought, but the overalling of the Earth does not tolerate. In the spring time, the seedling will need a subcortex of ammophos at the rate of 45 g per 1 kV. m, in the summer it will not be worth making mineral organic fertilizers – they are used once a month in case the young plant develops too slowly.
Breeding juniper cuttings at home does not represent any difficulty, even a novice gardener can grow from the branch. But in the same time it is important to clearly comply with all the rules of workpiece, rooting material and growing seedlings. All varietal signs are fully stored only if all the basic rules of reproduction were observed.
Reproduction of juniper cuttings in winter in the video below.