Flox’s herbaceous plant can often be found in the gardens and in summer cottages. The popularity of the flower is explained by both its decorative appearance and the lack of strict care requirements in the open soil. Beginners Flowers often begin their acquaintance with Azami Agrotechnology from Floxes. Consider how competently put and grow the presented culture.
Dates of landing
Recommended Time to Planning – Spring Start. If the landing is planned in the south, you can start the procedure already in early April. When growing in the suburbs and the middle lane, the landing is produced in the second half of April and early May – this month is already enough fundamental. If landing is carried out in Siberia or in the Urals, then from mid-May you can swing the flower bed and start planted.
It is allowed to produce landing and autumn, however, during this period, the culture is laid kidney, which means that the transplantation is important to carry out at least 1.5 months before the onset of frost. Byding landing at the end of the season, remember the need to trim: About 1/3 of the upper shoots need to be eliminated before “moving”.
It is possible to land in the summer, but for this you should use a seedling with a large earthen room, pre-cutting up the tops, especially if the procedure is carried out during flowering.
All energy and power plant should spend on rooting and addictive to a new place, and not on the development of flowers.
Choosing a place
Culture grows well both in the open space and in half. The most successful location is a place near shrubs or rare trees that will create a light shadow in a hot clock. Besides, In this section in the winter, snow will accumulate, which will warm the flowers and helps to survive the cold time.
Ideally, the culture should be planted on a small slope so that during the melting of precipitation here was not going to. It is better to avoid slopes where the ground is quickly overheating and dries out, besides, in this place the plant will not be hidden from the wind, and in the winter it can freeze. Do not use sections under the crowns of trees with a surface root system.
Flowerbed can be organized from the eastern, southeast, southwestern or western side of the house. Northern Wall of Construction or Shadow of Coniferous Trees – the least preferred option.
In general, the culture is not published for the choice of space and will be able to grow in the shadows, however, the lush and abundant flowering from such a shrub can hardly wait.
Next to plan on flowerbed?
Floxes are aesthetically look at both single and group landings. For example, you can land in one bush several seedlings that differ in the color of petals – then the garden will play with a variety of paints, will be filled with light and brightness. Picturesque paintings are created by planting phloxes near conifers or exotic cultures, for example, bookophy.
If the gardener places a monotonous variety, then you can make it an emphasis on a green background – it will create an impressive effect. For rhythmic landing, the use of culture in the mixture technique. Including phlox at the cottage in the flower composition, consider that the day of the tint of petals can change, for example, with blue on a lilac.
Floxes and other plants are perfectly combined: Irisami, Lilyniki, meadow geranium or anstilbami. Shilovoid varieties are well suited for decorating the Alpine slides, and a buggy look – to improve the appearance of an unsightly landscape.
When drawing up the composition, consider differences in color care. So, phloxes are moisture-loving plants, and with too close neighborhood with other cultures they will experience a constant moisture deficit.
Preparation of soil
Most preferred type of soil – medium divided fertile soil. Good flowers will develop on loose and wet areas with acidity up to 7.0 pH. If spring fit is planned, the preparation of flower beds is held in the fall. With autumn planting, the land is prepared in 2-3 weeks.
Preparation of the site begins with garbage and weed cleaning. Next, you should prepare a nutritional mixture consisting of compost, ash, lime, peat, river sand, mineral fertilizers. The prepared composition is entered into the soil. Then the ridge is carefully loosen.
If a flower bed is used under the landing, clay or other heavy soil, then the sand can be applied to break. With too easy composition, for example, sandy, the ground is diluted with manure, peat or clay.
Avoid in the preparation of a section of overwhelmed sawdust or wood chips, since this type of fertilizer can become a source of development of pathogens bacteria.
How to plant?
If there is warm weather without precipitation before planning, then the selected place should be carefully moistened, and after drying, it should be braced by a cultivator to level 12-15 cm.
The landing circuit is a single, two- or three-line tapes located at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other. The gap between the lines should be 35-50 cm, and between the seedlings – 30-40 cm.
Slowing down the seating material, it is necessary to smooth out the root system well. Place the seedling in the pit in such a way that after the coupling and sedimentation of the soil, the resulting eyes were shrouded in a maximum of 4-5 cm, otherwise they will develop badly. Further, the landing site is moistened, consumed by 1 m2 of landings of at least 15 liters of water, and mulched peat or peat-separated layer 4-5 cm.
You can plant perennial plants by drawing. This is permissible throughout the entire period of active growth. When the stem rose 5 cm, the time of shilling. The end of the process is dated September. The most promising is the cuttings obtained in early spring or in the summer.
Reproduction and gag is allowed. Even before the flowering, the escape tilted to the ground, fix it along the entire length and sprinkle with a mixture of peat and humus. Autumn young sprout can be separated from the parent bush and transplant.
Features of care
It is easy to care for phloxes, just perform a number of procedures.
Watering and humidity
First time after planning it is important to control the humidity of the soil. Too frequent watering with minor portions can provoke excessive soil seal. And also do not fond of loosening, otherwise fragile young seedlings can be injured. Watering, pour water under the root. Recommended portion 15-20 l per 1 m2. Water should not be cold – when watering cool water on a hot day, the plants can crack shoots.
The mulch layer made after landing will allow you to keep moisture in the ground and improve its aeration.
As a mulch with autumn landing, you can also use fine chips or straw – this will additionally warm the rhizome in front of wintering.
The division of bushes is carried out in summer or autumn, as a last resort, it is possible to carry out the procedure in the spring. It is especially advisable when growing valuable varieties, as in the spring is allowed to divide the bush to smaller shares. Consider that each part should include one vegetative kidney or shooting on the growth of escape and a small number of roots.
Once the parts of the bush are again planted, it is important to monitor the moisturity of the soil, and competently care for the plant. In the fall, you can observe bloom, although not so lush and abundant compared to well-developed decenes planted in autumn dates.
Feeding and loosening of the soil
In front of loosening and cultivation, dry feeding with mineral mixtures. Suitable, for example, ammonium nitrate or carbamide, potassium chloride or superphosphate. For active growth, the development of green mass and roots, culture is fed by the compositions including phosphorus and potassium. In constant and abundant dry fertilizers, the plant does not need.
In the second decade of May, flowers are fed by liquid mineral and organic fertilizers. Suitable mixtures of a cowboat or bird litter, ammonium nitrate, potash-phosphoric compositions. In late May – early June, you can make the same mixture, but increase the number of potassium and phosphorus. From mid-June, a nitrogen portion should be reduced. In the first days of July, flowerflows make liquid manure, and at the end of the month fertilize the culture with mixtures containing potassium and phosphorus.
To prevent the landings thickening, it is important to eliminate extra branches and leaves. Then the remaining parts will be fully provided with fresh air, the sun and moisture.
In the spring time, weak shoots should be switched to 5-7 cm. Usually, the extreme shoots to which the maximum of beneficial substances and water falls, develop better, and the stalks of the middle of the shrub from the shortage of food are flexible, grow worse.
Looking out weakened branches, observe accuracy. Try not to injure the root neck, as it can entail the death of the root system.
Possible problems in growing
Unpleasant surprises may occur in non-compliance with the rules of agrotechnics and conditions of content. So, the flower grown in the harsh climate can freeze. To do this, it should be pre-insulated most of the varieties. As soon as the plant swinging, it is important to remove its top. In the fall, before the onset of cold, all copies are cut at the ground level and destroy. Some flowerflowers prefer to leave small hemps, of which former flowers can develop in spring time.
If the plant is grown in the middle lane, then it does not require a special shelter, but it is important to make a humus or compost under the instances. The fact is that in the autumn period, the culture lays the kidneys, and gradually the root begins to leave from under the ground and take off. The mulching layer will cover the outstanding root, will insulate it, serve as an additional nutrition in this difficult period. The magnitude of the compost layer or humor depends on the age of the plant – the older and stronger, the thicker and layer.
The most appropriate time for this procedure is the end of October – the beginning of November, just at this time the upper strata of the soil is frozen.
Another problem in the cultivation may be lesion of plant disease. The most common viruses include ring and necrotic spottedness, implacability and curly leaf, spells. Often, phlox are also victims of fungi, for example, mildew, phomose, rust and spottedness of leaves.
Sometimes you can observe how the shoots are deformed, the development of the plant will slow down. The reason for this may be jaundice caused by mycoplasmas. If the flowers are amazed by viruses and mycoplasmas, they are not treated, but immediately eliminate. If the culture is damaged by fungus, then you can save it through copper-containing means.
Sometimes the gardener can observe on the stems of the crack, the leaves are fading and flying out. Receiving such a phenomenon, it can be assumed that the plant is planted in too acidic soil, or the rules of watering are not complied with.
Another problem can be insect attacks. Most often, the presented culture is striking nematodes, caterpillars, slugs, slumbsy Pennitsa. On the invasion of nematods speak bloat, braking in development, curvature of stems. This pest is dangerous in that it does not die in winter. Plants who have become a victim of nematodes are eliminated, and the remaining place is treated with special means.
On the presence of Potnie pointing whores on the inside of sheet plates indicate. The drug “Inta-Vir” will help to cope with it. Caterpillars and slugs eat leaves and flowers. Slugs destroy lime and metaldehyde, and it is possible to overcome the caterpillars using insecticides.
To avoid problems in the development of a flower, it is recommended to transplant perennial grades every 6-7 years. This manipulation is designed to rejuvenate a shrub, resume his vitality, make bloom even richer.
If all the rules of agrotechnology are complied with cultivation, and the plant is planted in favorable conditions, then you can leave phlox in one place and for 10 years.
Floxes care secrets See next video.