Features of landing hyacinth

    Gyacinth bulbous plants are very popular in garden territories and private areas. Gardeners Flower attracts not only its amazing appearance, but also a magical aroma. Hyacinths can be the main decoration of the garden, and can add a finished flower composition. But that blooming does not disappoint the owner of the site, it is important to accommodately approach the stage of planting culture.

    Optimal deadlines

    It is believed that the plant can be planted at any time, however, more preferable – autumn, the last few days or beginning of October. If you put on the bulbs in winter, then no one will guarantee that they will survive frosts, and when disembarking in autumn, the seedlings will have to root and adapt to new conditions. To protect the landing from the cold weather, it will correct to clue the section to peat.

    Selecting planting material

    Buy bulbs in verified nurseries or responsible gardeners. Before choosing, you can consult with agronomists. The health of the plant, the health of the plant, the abundance and pomp of his flowering depends on the quality of the planting material. On sale bulbs can be found already in August. You can use both flowers growing on the plot, in this case, tubers dig in the middle of summer.

    First of all, pay attention to the lover’s dimensions. Than it is larger, the larger there will be a bloomer, the more color the petals will spread. The optimal instance size is from 5 cm. The surface of the sample should be dry, it should not be extinct stains, mechanical damage, defects pointing to the formation of rotary processes.

    To increase operational qualities, the selected copy before landing is placed in a disinfecting solution, and before this, after purchase, stored in a dry dark room. A couple of weeks before planning it is recommended to maintain a temperature of +17 degrees.

    Conditions for growing

    The composition of the soil

    Soil for planting culture must contain organics and minerals, so the soil is better to pre-equip special fertilizers. For example, you can use Superphosphate, Magnesium and Potassium sulfate. If the earth is too clay, it is recommended to dilute it with sand. In the case of excessive acidity, it is allowed to supplement the composition of lime. More comfortable flower will feel in neutral soil. Do not use fresh organic when planning plants.


    The flower does not like the wind or draft, also uncomfortable he feels like sunlight on him. The impact of ultraviolet is negatively reflected on the colorful of flowering. The color of the petals under the influence of the Sun can pale, so The plot should not be strongly lit. Choose a slightly shaded place.

    Temperature and humidity

    The most preferred temperature for growing colors is +20 +23 degrees. Slave shoots start when the thermometer column turns out to be at the level of 5-10 degrees above zero. In April-May, when the thermometer shows + 15 + 20 degrees, bloom begins. This period continues until the end of June, by this time the flowers dry out, and the leaves are covered with yellow, and in July, you can cut off the shoots and dig bulbs.

    To begin the natural process of forming a new inflorescence, dug bulbs should be warm +25 degrees, these conditions must be maintained within two months. For a couple of weeks before planing, planting material is put on the street.

    After the October landing, the lows will be in the ground all winter, minus temperatures are not terrible.

    The humidity of the soil should be moderate. If the site selected landing is in lowlands or near ground water, it can provoke the rotation system. It is better to initially choose a place removed from groundwater at least 50 cm.

    To reduce earth humidity indicators, the landing is equipped with a full-fledged drainage system. It is also recommended to place the flowerbed on the elevation.

    How to plant?

    In pots

    On one container is allowed landing 1-3 bulbs. Capacity should be such a form so that the copies are located nearly close to each other – no further 2 cm. At the bottom, the drainage layer is equipped, the ground smeared on top, mixed with sand, and top laying on top. Landing material need to put a little in the soil, But the upper part should certainly be above the surface.

    Also before landing, experienced gardeners advise on bulbs Stratification. To do this, they are placed in the refrigerator, cellar or other cool place where the temperature of 6-9 degrees is preserved without sharp oscillations. The purpose of this procedure is to harden the landing material, then it is quickly captured in a new place and not afraid of harsh conditions.

    Also for growing a house of flower products advise to prepare a more complex version of the substrate. There is added sand, vermiculitis, soil, hydrogel, perlite, crumples, pebbles and simple water. In fact, the tubers themselves contain all the nutritional components, and the purpose of the substrate becomes a uniform entry of moisture to the roots. Therefore, the soil must be loose and moisture.

    After the bulbs are planted in a pot, the container is cleaned into the cooled place. Cooling term is determined by varietal features. On average, the first roots should appear after 1-1.5 months, the floweros will seem after about 3.5 months.

    In open primer

    Looking on bulbs on an open site is not particularly different from planting other bulbous plants. Before starting the procedure, it is important to move the entire seating and make sure that all copies are healthy and did not start rot. The process itself is as follows.

    1. Select a ridge with a height of up to 15 cm so that water is not stored and distributed evenly.
    2. Bring the Earth to a depth of up to 40 cm.
    3. Dilute the soil with a nutrient mixture. It can be prepared by connecting superphosphate, magnesium sulfate and sulfate potassium. Potassium allowed to replace on wood ash. Feeding with nitrogen in the composition at this stage are not needed – it is better to use them for spring and summer.
    4. Make holes under the landing. Depth is determined by the dimensions of the bulbs. If this is a standard instance of 6 cm in size, then sufficiently pits at 16-20 cm. With a smaller diameter, the depth of the wells must be up to 15 cm. Recommended distance between landing pits – 25 cm.
    5. At the bottom of the holes, plump the sand with a layer of 5-6 cm and, if necessary, lay out drainage from broken brick.
    6. Sit on the bulbs. If the earth is dry, then moisturize it.

    There is another way to planting bulbs. This is the so-called lazy method for those gardeners who are tired of digging bulbs every time, but at the same time they wish to keep the decorative color. To implement it on the bottom of plastic boxes from under fruits, several newspapers or cardboard are laying out, plump with a small layer of soil, a few centimeters of sand, and from above put on the bulbs at a distance of 15 cm from each other. Next, the landing falls asleep fertile land and in the box are buried in a bed at the autumn time.

    With the arrival of summer, at the end of flowering the box can be opened and leave until autumn in the shade. It is recommended to cover it from precipitation, however, the ventilation must be good. The bulbs are well saved until the autumn in this form – in the box they will also be tired, and will be protected from heat. However, before planning, it will still be worth checking the box for damaged or sick bulbs.

    Sometimes the gardener wishes to transplant a dacha copy of the open soil into the house, and then the dug up the tuber should be soaked in advance in water tanks. It is better to use an ordinary glass for this, in which the bowl will dive not completely, but to omit only the lower part, from where the root germination will begin. When the sprout persuades, it is possible to transplant the plant in the pot of earth.

    Hyacinths are allowed to multiply in different ways. For example, a bulb can be cut crosswise and plant it back, after a while you can observe small samples of bulbs. It is possible to reproduce the method of division, when the middle tuber cut into 4 parts and planted. In this case, there will be 4 new bulbs, however, the flowering is not worth waiting for the next 2-3 years. The rare way is the reproduction of seeds. With such technology, the plant blooms no earlier than 6 years.

    Further care

    After the lows are planted on the site, the gardener will have to care well and take care of their comfort, and then the magical bloom of hyacinths can be observed in the spring. So, the most important criterion of good health of the plants will be timely watering. On one square meter it is customary to make 7-10 liters of water. The recommended interval between moisturizes is 3-4 days. After the irrigation procedure, it is advisable to loose soil. During drought, if necessary, flowers are poured more.

    If the plant is planted at home, then the soil is moisturized as needed. For this, the flower water should make sure that the soil is really dried. It uses the well-tempered water temperature. It is very important to not allow drying during flowering, since the inflorescences will fall from the moisture deficit, and the flower will “fall asleep” until next year.

    Another important stage when leaving the plant – making feeding. It is required to do 2 times a year. The first fertilizer is made in the spring with the advent of the first sprouts, during this period it is customary to use an ammonium salter. Next feeding is carried out before flowering – Superphosphate or potassium sulfate is suitable for this stage. The fertilizer is laid out on the surface of the Earth, and from above they cheer soil and slightly moistened.

    After flowering, when the stems and leaves are covered, the flowers are cut, the bulbs dig out, clean, processed the affected areas, spray with fungicide and searched to storage until autumn. Without this procedure, the plant will lose its decorativeness during the next flowering. Looking onions need insulation, because in front of them is waiting for winter. Before frosts, flower leaf mulch with a thick layer dry foliage, sawdust, peat. You can apply Pynik or humus. Recommended layer – 20 cm. In the winter months in bed Snow sinks. These manipulations will not give young bulbs frozen during the first winter.

    Special attention should be paid to the protection of plants from diseases and pests. Copies planted in open ground are distinguished by a high immunity before infections, which cannot be said about greenhouse and outstanding samples. Under adverse conditions during the storage of planting material, their surface may affect penicillosis. The disease develops if there is a temperature of 17 degrees and high humidity in the room where the bulbs are stored. The disease indicates the dried ends of the roots. Making a slice slightly above the Don, you can observe how the insides were painted in a light brown color.

    If the infected low is planted on the site, then it will be passively developed the root system or will not give roots at all. Fragile blooms will not rise. Gradually, the fungus will spread to all the plant. As prevention It is important to store planting material at air humidity not higher than 70%, and the bulbs with prematurely abandoned roots immediately plant.

    Another serious alert, the victim of which the hyacinth can become, this is a yellow bacterial rot. Its features are said to show such signs as the growth stop, formation of divorces and strips, posting some parts.

    So that the rot does not infect neighboring landings, the patient should be eliminated from the site and destroy, and the place where it grew, to be treated with a solution of “formalin” or chlorine lime.

    As for insects, it is most suitable for the juice of the presented culture that loves Floral flies. To fight with this pest help such means as “Mogyohed”, “Tabazol” or “Aktara”. Another frequent uninvited guest on the flowerbed – meadow tick. Most often, he appears in the late spring or early summer. It is dangerous in that it transfers incurable viruses. At the copies affected by the tick, the flowers are deformed, the leaves are covered with yellow and dry. In the fight against this insects will help drugs “Aktellik” or “Talstar”.

    Third Fresh Pest is a Medved. Folk methods will get rid of it. For example, you can dig on the flower bed, put on the bottom of the manure or rewind straw and cover the piece of blackboard. Insects will slip towards traps for laying eggs, and after 3-4 weeks of individuals can be destroyed.

    If chemical preparations are more familiar, then you can use Medvetoks tools, “Meshnik”, “Bovterin”, “Grizzly” or “Thunder”.

    On the landing of hyacinths in open primer, see the following video.

    Rate the article
    ( No ratings yet )
    Add comments

    ;-) :| :x :twisted: :smile: :shock: :sad: :roll: :razz: :oops: :o :mrgreen: :lol: :idea: :grin: :evil: :cry: :cool: :arrow: :???: :?: :!: