Only mortise locks insert in the interior doors, since the overheads will look somewhat cumbersome and too noticeable with one of their sides. Make this work is quite simple, especially those people who at least once had with such a case. In the article, consider how to choose, install and adjust the locks of this type.
Choosing a castle
The most common version of the castle in a wooden interroom door is a cylinder mechanism with two round or g-shaped handles and a snatch. They are performed in several versions, for example, with a locking device or without it. In the first case, it is possible to close the door on one side, thereby blocking the opening of it with a handle on the other hand. That is, you can bother in the bedroom and relax, without fear that someone will enter the room and find you in the way. The lock without a locking device is placed only so that the door can be covered tightly on the latch, protecting against drafts, smells from the kitchen or noise from other rooms.
The locking device does not necessarily have a key mechanism. There are locks that have ordinary blocks of various forms, made in the main handle, for example, levers or buttons. The range of locks in building materials stores is quite wide, so there should be no problems with the choice.
An option with larvae and keys is, in fact, a simplified device of the inlet door lock. Such a lock can usually be unlocked on both sides, without fear of becoming a prisoner in its own office, as in cases where the lock is installed on the door with a lock. The tongue in such doors is activated when pressed on the handle. If the door bears a function of a simple barrier from drafts, and does not serve the fence of personal space (with a locking device), it is better to choose a lock with a plastic string. From her less noise, very annoying at night in the process of opening and closing the door with family “midnakes”.
If you figure out, different variants of devices put on the door of the rooms with a specific function:
- For cabinets fit locks with larvae for keys on both sides;
- for bedrooms, toilets, bathtubs and shower – devices with blocks from the inside;
- For children’s rooms, the ideal option is new-fashioned and expensive magnetic locks;
- For kitchens, hall and utility rooms, you can restrict ourselves to ordinary locks with handles and a snatch.
But in any case, all devices must be mortised. When choosing, it is necessary to make sure that the interior canvases in your dwelling have a corresponding thickness for the selected accessories. Standard doors usually have an unequal thickness of the canvas: Some – at least 35 mm, others – 45 mm. Here we need the appropriate fittings in order to avoid the fact that the castle will turn out to be equal to the door.
In addition, choosing accessories, you need to pay attention to the overall interior of the housing and rooms in particular. Door array is also of great importance. For example, it is impossible to trim the locking devices, calculated on the door weighing 40 kg, on a web weighing in 70 kg. Bad idea will be in a cloth having huge dimensions, embed the lock with miniature handles and a weak return spring.
As for the magnetic lock, mentioned above, the device has inside the movable positively charged core (avenue), which begins to act only when the door is closed. In this position, it turns out to be opposite the negatively charged magnetic strip installed on the door log. Rigel is attracted by a plank and reliably fixes the door in the closed position. To open the door you need to turn the handle that disjects (unlocks) magnets. After opening the door on the rigle, the strength of the interaction of different magnets is no longer available, so it returns to the place. A completely silent device is gaining popularity, which is still holding back only quite a high price on the design of this type.
For sliding interroom doors, there are also special locking devices. They are crashed into the canvas, have the same swivel handles and bar on the box. The main difference of such devices is their latch having the shape of the hook, because of which this constipation was called “Capoon”.
It doesn’t matter which castle was chosen for a particular interior door, the preparation for the installation is not much different from its type. You can give advice: if you plan to embed the locks on all the interior doors of the apartment or at home, then it is best to do this on the door canvases removed from the loops. This will tell you any professional. If you decide to put a locking device only in one door, and removing it with loops presents certain difficulties, then better mount the lock in the “standing” position.
Before approaching the door with the tool, you need to carefully consider the acquired model of the locking mechanism, to once again verify the availability of all the necessary parts and fasteners with a description of the configuration, fully familiarize yourself with the instructions and deal with the device installation scheme. All this should be attached to the product.
Armed with knowledge and making sure the complete set, should be declaring at what height will need to install the device. Usually locks are crashed at a height of 100 to 150 cm from the floor surface. Choosing a height, you can make a preliminary mark on the canvas and think about the instrument that will be needed for the insertion of the existing castle.
Consider the sample version of the simplest device with two handles and a snatch.
To work, you will need:
- electric drill with sweepers;
- Fiber drill on 22 mm;
- milling cutter with a diameter of 50 mm;
- set of screwdrivers;
- a hammer;
- measuring instruments (ruler, carbon, roulette);
- Washing marker or pencil.
Electric drill is needed not only for drilling holes for fasteners, it will come in handy and for working with a feathery drill and a cutter. A featured drill will need to drill a hole for the lock, and the cutter – recesses for decorative linings of the handles. Of course, such a job is accurately carried out by a special tool – a milling machine, which is adapted precisely for such cuts in the tree, but because of its high cost, professionals who earn their living for a joiner.
Making a groove
When installing the lock, it will be necessary to make grooves for the support plate of the latch on the end side of the door leaf to a depth of 3-5 mm (depending on the model), as well as for the reverse plate on the door block.
This is done with your own hands with the use of the chisels and the hammer on the following technology:
- The planks are applied to the place of their future location, and they are driving around the perimeter with a pencil or a thin marker;
- According to the marked sizes, it is neatly cut down by the chisel and the hammer the platform for a small depth;
- Further, work must be continued, following the depth – it should be strictly in the thickness of the plates, as it is undesirable to be undesirable alet, nor too small groove;
- Having cutting into the grooves, they are cleaned with irregularities and garbage.
In case of unnecessary bulk, it will have to eliminate the error of the layer of plastic or other material, which, of course, will not improve the operational reliability of the device.
Installation of the device
Before embelling the lock, you need to make markup. All overlap operations starting with markup, it is easy to spend yourself. Usually such accessories are installed right in the middle of the door leaf from one edge. Therefore, a small feature with a roulette is the middle of the canvas (for a standard door from its bottom it will be a distance of 95 cm or so in any direction). Then from the edge of the canvas, which will crawl the lock, with the help of the coated, there are 6 cm to the intersection with the previous mark.
There is a noticeable point on the site of intersection of two marks. It is this point that will be the center through which the axis of the handles and the blocker will pass if the lock need to be collected with the retainer. Here will be the center of drilling a deepening for decoration of the handles.
All operations are used to perform better according to the algorithm.
- With the help of the same as a carbon, we transfer the center point on the sidewall door, right on the middle of the thickness of the canvas. Here will be the center of the cylindrical body of the lock (latches, tongues).
- Now you need to take a feathery drill, insert it into an electric drill and drill a hole under the castle body. In this case, it is necessary to withstand strictly perpendicular to the axis of the drill with respect to the sidewall of the door leaf. Depth of the hole – about 35 mm.
- You need to change the feathery drill in a drill on the cutter. This tool drills a hole for the handles. Here, too, you must carefully monitor the position of the instrument so that it is perpendicular to the door both in horizontal and in the vertical plane. In addition, it is impossible to allow pass-through door drilling on one side. On the cutter there is a sharp tip on the axis like the pen of the previous drill, so it will serve as a guide for the end of work. When this tip will be drilled opposite to the side of the web, then switch to the other side and reserved the hole from there in order to avoid damage to the cutting place.
- Next step – Using a feathery drill to correct the size of the outlet for a latch. It should be within 23 mm (we had a 22 mm drill). To do this, you just need to fit the hole under the size, inserting and trying the castle cylinder to the hole.
- After that, it is necessary to clean the resulting two holes connecting with each other perpendicular to the axes, from dust, sawdust and burrs.
- Insert the lock cylinder into the appropriate hole and perform a sample of the groove under its support plate using the chisels and the hammer described above. When the landing place under the latch is ready, we install it in place, we drill a thin drill of the holes for mounting screws and the castle to the door.
- Now you can, inserting one of the handles into the lock hole, mark the exact location of the response. For this, the tongue is covered by any coloring substance and, holding the tongue with the handle in the in-depth state, cover the door to the end. Making sure that the door is covered tightly, you need to let go of the handle, the latch is staring in the door block and make a mark. And already at this mark you can calculate the place of installation of the response. Sample under it to make a chisel and hammer as described above. At the end of the production of the groove, set the bar to place and secure with the help of screws.
Installation of door locks using a submersible type milling material and easier. To the milling machine, in addition, various templates are attached to work with many famous types of locks. With the help of the carriage and these templates, all the installation is made on the installation of not only various accessories, but also by the correct installation of the door itself.
Assembly and adjustment
It remains only to finally collect the lock, adjust, if necessary, its work, and finally fasten all the fasteners. Immediately it is worth noting that you do not need to be too diligent with fasteners, especially in those locks where parts of the device are bonded with each other from different sides of the canvas. Strong screw tightening can deform the case, and it will be hard to work a locking mechanism, up to the jamming.
As the latch is already standing in the right place, then you need to insert the handles. First of all, a handle is installed with the mounting screws that you need to unscrew before installing. After that, the handle is inserted with its square axis into the hole of the lock and in the eating hole in the canvas until it stops.
Another handle in modern models is often fixed on a cylindrical case and has a removable decorative bar. First, the handle and decorative bar must be removed from the housing, dropping fixtures, and only then the case is installed in the appropriate hole in the canvas towards the square control axis from the opposite handle, satisfied with this axis until. Then the fastening screws are inserted into the holes, and they are two sides of the handles to be fastened with each other.
Now it will only be left to return to the body a decorative bar and a handle, drowned locks on the housing. They are inhabited by the body until the records of the locks came out from the shuffle in the fastening grooves of these elements.
Installation of the locking device is completed, and it is necessary to adjust the free course of the lock mechanism and its clear operation. This can be checked by turning the handle. It should be easily and without gaps to move, and after her release immediately return to the place. In the event of a heavy stroke or jamming, you need to release a little fastening screws. On the contrary, if there are extraneous sounds and backlash in the mechanism, the fastener screws need to be tied up.
After adjusting the locking mechanism, check the operation of the system as a whole. To do this, close the door and check the correct setting. If there is a small backlash stand in the bar or, on the contrary, the millimeter displacement of the hole relative to the latch, then all this can be eliminated by extension or preventing the adjusting plate of the opening of the reverse strip.
If the lock works correctly, then there should be no backs between a snatch and reverse plank, the door is tightly closed, the lock works easily, and without too much noise.
How to cut down the lock in the interroom door, you will learn from video.